Podcast: 5 Training & Performance Myths BUSTED!

In this podcast, Eric Hörst presents many practical tips for climbing your best on a roadtrip…and for training in safe and effective ways, by steering clear of popular training myths and dogma.

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Podcast rundown:
1:10 – Reflections on a roadtrip—tips for performing your best while on an extended climbing trip.

3:20 – Learn about the “golden period” of a roadtrip—when you are typically the strongest and most powerful…and be able to climb the hardest.

4:10 – Why the best-trained climbers actually get weaker (and lose high-end power) during a multi-week climbing trip.

7:45 – What’s the best ratio of climbing days vs. rest days, while on a long climbing trip.

9:55 – Importance of diet and sleep for optimizing recovery and performing your best on a roadtrip.

13:38 – Upon returning for a long roadtrip, how long should you break from serious training & climbing?

15:20 – Eric comments on Adam Ondra’s mega-project…perhaps the world’s first 5.15d.

18:08 – Introduction to the “Training & Performance Mythbusters” segment.

20:38 – Myth #1: Hangboard training is only appropriate for advanced climbers. (Learn the truth….that hangboard training is useful—for developing finger strength AND building stronger tendons & pulleys—for all climbers other than beginner and recently injured climbers.)

29:55 – Myth #2: Campus training, as commonly shown in social media feeds, is something you should be doing…because campus training is the best method of developing a stronger, more powerful upper-body for climbing. (Learn the truth….and how “pre-hab” training is essential before adding campus training to your program.)

36:45 – Myth #3: The widely publicized “10,000-hour Rule” of practice applies to climbing….therefore you must climb as often and as much as possible so as to accumulate the 10,000 hours needed to become elite. (The truth? Applied to climbing…this rule is bogus! With good coaching, smart training, a high-level of motivation/dedication, and favorable genetics, you can become a high-level climber in far fewer than 10,000 hours of practice.)

40:02 – Myth #4: Body building and other “fitness” magazine (and web sites) are a good source of effective training techniques that you can apply to climbing. (Hear Eric bust this myth!)

43:45 – What about novel bodybuilding techniques, such as the recently popularized Blood Flow Restriction training? It’s been “proven” effective by research, right?

47:12 – Learn why it’s best for a climber NOT to have large, bulging biceps….or excessive muscles elsewhere.

48:40 – Myth #5: The latest diet fad (whatever it may be) is likely useful to a serious climber. (Eric will address the currently popular ketogenic/LCHF diet…)

53:00 – How about popular dietary supplements, such as fish oil, a multi-vitamin, creatine monohydrate, and such?

57:40 – Episode wrap up

Music: Misty Murphy

Copyright © 2017 Eric J. Hörst