Your Questions

Round 137

Hey Eric, I’ve read your books and literally everything else out there. I’m a former marathon runner looking for more structured training. I do a wide range of training for climbing–systems training, HIT strips, hypergravity (rock prodigy), campus, some LDIs, 30 minutes on the wall, not in that order. I also train antagonists and abs Read More

Round 136

Hello Eric! I’m getting back into climbing after a fairly long absence (8 years); I began climbing at age 12 and climbed (and competed) at a high level into my early 20s. I started climbing again last month, and I’m mainly focusing on  regaining endurance and getting my technique back (and not getting injured). My main Read More

Round 135

Hi Eric, Is strength training and building muscle mass in the lower body detrimental to climbing success? –Kinza (Texas) Hi Kinza, We do train deadlifts and squats (and plyo box jumps) as posterior chain strength is important in climbing. Furthermore, these are also potent core exercises! The key is to use relatively heavy  weight and Read More

Round 134

Hi Eric, My first year of climbing I became strong quickly and improved steadily, yet recently I have plateaued. So I’m thinking about doing some targeted training…things like Pull -ps, Frenchies, Uneven grip pull-ups, and possibly doing Ladder and Touches on the Campus Board. My question for you is when should I train? Do I Read More

Round 133

Dear Eric, What’s the best way to learn to climb more with the legs and less with the arms? I’m a struggling beginner and my arms tire quickly. –Alice Hi Alice, Yes, it’s important to use your legs as much as possible. Here are two drills to help you out: #1 drill is called “soft Read More

Round 132

I have been bouldering for about 11 months, and while I see the improvement of my fellow climbers, I don’t seem to be improving at all! This is really frustrating to me.  Any suggestions as to what I can do to spur on improvement? – Shirley (California) Stick with it, Shirley, you will improve! Everyone progresses Read More

Round 131

Hi Eric! Thank you so much for the articles you write, they are awesome! I read the two parts of your article named “training muscular endurance” and found it very good. My question is whether I can perform these methods (two or more) in the same day of strength training in the gym. I train Read More

Round 130

Hi Eric! I want to start by saying thank you for your thorough response to a previous question of mine. Your training advice was a great help and it definitely contributed to having one of my best trips yet. So, I have a trip planned to RMNP and Mt. Evans in September and have been training Read More

Round 129

I am curious what types of weights to use to add to your body while training? I have seen belts and vests. Is there a “best” method that you recommend? –Dennis (Colorado) Hi Dennis, In adding weight for actual climbing (bouldering, system training, Treadwall), you want to add the weight as near to your center of mass as possible Read More

Round 128

Hi Eric, This summer I will be a climbing bum and I’m hoping to be leading high 5.12s by September. Right now I’m pretty weak because I haven’t been climbing, but at my peak I’ve been able to onsight 5.11bs outside. I’ve got two questions on aerobic endurance training. 1.) What should my aerobic endurance Read More

Round 127

Hey Eric, I’ve been wondering about the possibilities of reaching a high level of bouldering (V8-V10ish) after starting climbing at a relatively late age. I just turned 25 and have been climbing just under 2 years. I climb quite a bit and hit the gym and do climbing specific workouts regularly, so I’m in fairly Read More

Round 126

Hello Eric! I am 18 and I’ve been bouldering regularly for 2.5 years. I’ve been searching for good ways to train for climbing, but I find that all sources say the same: “while training for power/strength, less is more.” But many sources also say that you want to spend more hours climbing, because it takes Read More

Round 125

Hey Eric! I’m currently working to climb 5.11a, but I have noticed a plateau in my climbing. I’m back from a 6-month hiatus from climbing, and I’m now consistently climbing a few days per week for the past two months. My goals are to climb 5.11s on sport lead and 5.10s on trad lead. What Read More

Round 124

Hi Eric, I’m a 17-year-old Iranian climber, and I’ve been climbing for 6 years. Over this time I managed to climb some 8a projects and I can onsight some 7b routes. I have a great issue in my climbing, however, it that I don’t recover much when I try to rest on the route I’m Read More

Round 123

I have climbed indoors and outside a handful of times, and I have thoroughly enjoyed it each time. I’d like to begin some formal training–any suggestions on classes (I live on Long Island) and in particular your thoughts on the AMC highly selective rock training class given only once a year from the NY/NJ chapter? Read More

Round 122

Hey Eric, I have been climbing for about a year and a half, and I frequent the gym at least 4 times per week. I have rapidly progressed to bouldering V5/V6. In order to boulder harder should I just keep climbing or should I add actual strength training elements to my routine? –Will (Connecticut) Hi Read More

Round 121

 Hi Eric, I’m a novice climber (11 months). I train together with a friend following your 4-3-2-1 cycle, and we are both really progressing. We climb about the same level, have the same size and weight, and similar strength. Interestingly my friend can climb much longer than me on overhanging pumpy routes. How can I Read More

Round 120

First of all I’d like to say that I’m a big fan. Unfortunately, for the past year I’ve been struggling to improve my maximum strength, without adding another entry to my long list of injuries. Here’s my problem: When bouldering I’m amazingly strong on my first try (sometimes do V9-V11), but after just a few Read More

Round 119

Hi Eric, I’m doing some research into climbing specific training and I can’t find a definition (and training guidelines) for “power” or “power endurance”, etc. Can you help me out here? Thanks for your time! –Jake (Australia) Hey Jack, In rock climbing, power is all about brief explosive movements, as in a campus move or Read More

Round 118

I’ve just finished my first periodized training cycle, and I am now beginning my second. I’ve realized that I naturally build muscle quite easily, however I think my recruitment is rather low. For this next cycle I want to spend more time focused on max recruitment, however I feel that finger strength is also a Read More

Round 117

I was a basketball player before I started climbing, so I have large, muscular thighs. I’d like to drop some of that muscle mass without losing my climbing muscle. I already start jogging 3 times a week, but I’m afraid running will build up more muscle on my leg. What do you suggest? –Terry (Hong Read More

Round 116

Hi Eric, Can you please give me more info on the ”Stamina Workout” (p.182) in Training for Climbing? Should I be trying to climb, say, 1,500 feet all at once or 150 feet in 10 reps? I climb sport at the Red River Gorge weekly, so 80 foot routes are my focus. I’m following the Read More

Round 115

Hi Eric, I’ve just turned 40 a few months ago, and after 1.5 years of climbing and training, I’ve managed to reach my first significant goal–climbing my first 7a+ sport route (5.12a), yesterday! I bought and read two of you books, How to Climb 5.12 and Training for Climbing, and enjoyed every bit of them. Read More

Round 114

I’m trying to break through a plateau with route climbing and I was hoping you might be able to help. I boulder up to V9 and lead 12+, but can’t break into the 5.13 grade–I’ve tried many, and do all the moves, but I can’t complete the routes.  I don’t think power is normally an Read More

Round 113

Hi Eric, What age do you recommend youth climbers begin training on the campus board and finger board?  – John (Georgia) Hi John, There’s no hard and fast rule for using these training boards, but rather a “safe age” for specific exercises.  For example, an athletic kid can begin doing a little campus board “laddering” Read More

Round 112

Having just relocated to Lexington, KY, I’m really looking forward to climbing at the Red River Gorge. However, between a busy new job, a wife who works full time, and two very young kids, my climbing time is limited. I’ll probably only get to the Red a couple times per month and the only training materials I Read More

Round 111

A big goal of mine for the last few years has been to train hard enough to onsight my first 5.13. I do enjoy sport climbing and bouldering, but I struggle with putting time into redpointing at my limit. My toughts when I fall repeatedly on 5.12d is that I must need to train harder. Personally, Read More

Round 110

I have never really trained for climbing before and am looking to begin now because I struggle getting past V5s and I definitely want to improve my general abilities. I know that technique will be a greater asset, but I feel I also need to improve my grip strength (bear in mind that I live Read More

Round 109

Hey Eric, I started bouldering last year and have been training incredibly hard 4 or 5 times a week. I do campus training, LDIs, hangboarding, and Max bouldering – I also cross train with a lot of crossfit, plyometrics, cardio, horseback riding, muay thai, and long pump endurance sessions on our gym’s boulder. After training Read More

Round 108

I have been trying to apply the lessons in your book, Training for Climbing, and have seen some fantastic gains this season. I have been using the 4-3-2-1 macro cycle for training and am currently on the 1 week of rest phase, prior to a (hopefully) peaking trip to Horse Pens 40. My question: Is Read More

Round 107

Eric -Thanks in advance for the opportunity to ask you a question! I appreciate all of the resources that you have provided the climbing community – books, website articles, monthly newsletter, etc. I have been climbing for 2 years and have totally fallen in love with the sport. I generally climb 4 days per week Read More

Round 106

Dear Eric, I am such an admirer of your books on climbing, and I’m hoping you could help me with a training-related question. It’s about delayed-onset muscle soreness (DOMS). Ever since I started climbing (about 4 years ago) DOMS after training has become an increasingly rare experience for me. My question is as follows: keeping Read More

Round 105

Hi Eric, I’ve really enjoyed your books over the years. Thanks much for all the info you’ve shared – very helpful and inspirational. One of my climbing goals is to sport lead into the 12s and my endurance is limiting me at this time. I’m really trying to focus on maximizing my economy of grip, Read More

Round 104

I’m just about finished building a small HIT wall at home and my priority is to develop my open-hand strength to break my crimp addiction. My question is on the HIT strip training: Is the center jug intended for the open-hand or should I just open-hand the outer edges? Also, do you have any suggestions Read More

Round 103

Eric, I am a big fan of your books. I think I own almost all of them. Last summer I dislocated my shoulder (non-climbing injury). I have been released from the doctor to return to working out and climbing. During my down time I started thinking about how to improve my climbing once I was Read More

Round 102

I started climbing about a year ago, and I have been making slow and steady progress. I have fallen in love with the sport and I aspire to climb in the higher grades (V10+ and 5.13+) one day. Unfortunately I was a rower and an American football player before climbing. So I stand 6 feet Read More

Round 101

Eric, Your training articles have helped me to advance from 11c to 12c in the past year—thanks! Now, I want to increase my training intensity and maybe even upgrade to working out 5 or 6 days per week. What kind of supplements could I take to help my training and recovery? –Amir (Iran) Hello Amir, Read More

Round 100

Hey Eric, After many years of climbing I’ve realized that I always wear out my left shoe (tip of the big toe) before my right. I know that my left foot is slightly bigger than my right which may contribute to this uneven wear, but could this be indicative of a footwork issue? If the Read More

Round 99

Hi Eric, I started climbing at age 54, at a weight of 171 lbs. and with lifelong arthritis…and fell in love with climbing. I’m now 58 and 119 lbs., but frustrated that I can’t seem to gain any of the strength.  Am I just too old to increase strength by a significant amount? Should I Read More

Round 98

Hi Eric, I read a lot of climbing literature, and your books really stand out—Maximum Climbing and Training for Climbing are impressive! I’ve been climbing outdoors for years but never trained. A recent sprained ankle brought me to the gym and I’m now super excited to start training! Can you give me some advice on Read More

Round 97

This site is awesome and very helpful! I have a question about finger strength in terms of the various grip positions. Is it true that crimping does NOT directly strengthen open-handed grips, while most open-handed grips do directly improve your hand strength across all types of holds? Thanks! –Jinda (New York, NY) Hi Jinda, Grip Read More

Round 96

I’ve been climbing for some time now, started off just powering through everything and would do ok. I feel like have broken through on a number of levels, namely my technique and mental game have caught up with my power. However, the main aspect I have noticed has been holding me back is my finger Read More

Round 95

Hello Eric, I built a woody in my garage 3 years ago and put up an HIT system. I weigh about 180lbs and am wondering what the maximum weight you recommend for workouts per grip is. Currently, I use 35lbs for Crimp, 10lbs for Pinch, 10lbs 3rd team, 30lbs 2nd and 1st team two-finger pockets, Read More

Round 94

I’ve recently develop pain on the inside of my left elbow, which I believe it is tendonosis. I have been stretching, icing and taking NSAIDs and Fish Oil, but with little improvement. I realize I should take a bit of time off, but I am heading to Barcelona in 2.5 weeks, so I’ve been training Read More

Round 93

Dear Eric, I’m mostly a boulderer and I’m training for strength gains so I can continue to improve. Right now, I’ve been getting good strength gains from my Monday/Wednesday hangboard sessions and my Tuesday/Thursday weight-training sessions. I boulder outside most Saturdays, and I’m thinking about getting into competition climbing as well. What direction should I Read More

Round 92

I do 5 or so hours of bouldering and sport climbing at a gym during the week, but focus on trad and alpine experiences whenever time allows. I have read Training for Climbing (which is excellent) and have worked hypergravity and fingerboard training, as well as uneven pull-ups, into my workouts over the past three Read More

Round 91

Dear Eric, I have used the training program provided in your “How to Climb 5.12” book and have seen great results.  However, due to a new job I can no longer keep up with the program’s equipment requirements.  So I have two questions: 1. What is the best hangboard out there?  What should I get Read More

Round 90

Hey Eric!  I just sent my seventh 5.13 route–all were 13a or 13b, so what’s the best way to train to achieve 5.13+? What time of year should you begin this training (if I wanna send 5.13+ in the spring, should I have begun my training in the winter?) and how do you know when Read More

Round 89

I just bought your H.I.T stripes so that I can step-up my training. I’ve been climbing a few years and currently lead 5.12. What HIT Training advice can you provide me to make the most of my training…and push into the higher grades. -–Matthew (Idaho) Hi Matthew, You are doing great for just 2 years Read More

Round 88

What is a typical workout for the intermediate climber (I’ve been climbing one year and can do V6)?  I don’t want to “just climb” anymore during my gym sessions.  I want to train really hard so when I go outside I’m super psyched on sending my projects.  Please help! Thank you for your time.  BTW, Read More

Round 87

Q: Hi, I have an HIT wall at my house and am going to start doing the anaerobic endurance training on it and am wondering how many off days should be taken when doing these workouts. –Brett (Oklahoma) A: Hey Brett, Amount of rest depends on many things….intensity/volume of training, age, nutrition, genetics, etc. Typically Read More

Round 86

Q: My question regards my 10-year-old daughter. She took 3rd in the Youth D Sport Nationals last year. Lately she is having problems with her feet (trusting them) and with sequencing and visualizing routes. Can you give me some tips or drill to help her with her feet and sequences? Thanks, –Jim (California) A: Hi Read More

Round 84

Q: Hello Eric, Recently I found a beautiful route that is power endurance on tufas (compression moves, relatively big pinchy holds) on a 45-degree overhanging wall. Could you give me some tips for training for that specific route? I can do all the moves, but I get excessively pumped. –Dragos (Romania) A: Hi Dragos, You Read More

Round 83

Q: I’m 47 years old and a relatively new 5.10 climber, but really want to achieve the 5.12 grade. I’m naturally strong, but my body is much stronger than my hands. I have ordered your HIT system, but I wonder if I also need something more moderate to train on at home. Also, I don’t Read More

Round 82

Q: Hey Eric, As a climber of a few years, I have recently started bouldering pretty hard and would like to move more into hard sport climbing. My endurance is weak and my hardest flash so far is only 12c. So, I want to begin some climbing interval training to improve endurance. What angle wall Read More

Round 81

Q: Hi Eric, First, of all I want to thank you for writing “Training for climbing” which is simply the best! Now my question: Is it okay to do (uneven-grip) pull-ups and hypergravity hangboarding in one session or do these different exercises belong to completely different parts of the training circle? In addition to that Read More

Round 80

Q: I can generally onsite 11c/d, but I have huge issues breaking into 12a. I don’t feel like it is a strength or technique issue, yet I am totally stuck. Any insight you could give would be awesome. Thanks, –Zach (Minnesota) A: Hi Zach, Your assessment is probably accurate. Breaking into that next level is Read More

Round 79

Q: I am training for a huge climb in the Bugaboos–All Along the Watchtower on North Howser. Very long and hard; about 20 pitches, 5.12a. In the past I would simply train for a route like this by trad climbing as much as possible and nothing else. Do you have any additional suggestions for me Read More

Round 78

Q: Hey, so I’ve gotten to a pretty satisfying point in my climbing ability, and obviously I will continuously get better, but I noticed the other day that my eating habits are less than optimal. I’ve seen those “extra-endurance” powders that you can add to drinks, do those help at all? Any advice on nutrition Read More

Round 77

Q: My question is that on some days a week I am tired and I do not desire to go for even indoor climbing. I’ve been rock climbing for 22 years, and I no longer have motivation. How can I regain motivation to train and climb more? –Vangelis (Greece) A: Vangelis, Motivation comes from having Read More

Round 76

Q: Some days I lack desire to go training or climbing; perhaps because I’ve been climbing for more than 22 years. What can I do to increase motivation? –Vangelis (Greece) A: Hello Vangelis, Motivation comes from having compelling climbing goals–so if you don’t have a trip or goal climb in mind that you are training Read More

Round 75

Q: What are your suggestions for improving the ability to maintain cross tension (so compression boulder problems, as well as finesse cave problems) in terms of workouts or ways to practice? –Jonathan (California) A: Hi Jonathan, Compression problems are a relatively specific movement, so the best training is doing them! (No single exercise perfectly replicates Read More

Round 74

Q: Hi Eric, When is the best time to do climbing intervals? During all phases of climbing, or only during stamina or anaerobic endurance training phases? My second question is in regards to strength and finger training as parts of a training cycle. –Erin (Germany) A: Hi Erin, Steep-wall climbing intervals (as I’ve often written Read More

Round 73

Q: Hi Eric, About two months ago I stopped climbing due to recurring finger tendonitis on my right and left middle finger. I’m excited to start climbing again, and I would like to know how to slowly increase my load so that I can start climbing again (while minimizing risk of re-injury). –Jay (Michigan) A: Read More

Round 72

Q: My question regards the 4-3-2-1 training schedule. During the 4 weeks of endurance training, I’m wondering if my fingerboard workouts should be geared toward endurance also? I have been doing weighted workout outs on my fingerboards and HIT strips during this phase I was just wondering if that is the correct approach. –Rusty (Oklahoma) Read More

Round 71

Q: Hi Eric, As a new climber, I’ve been going to the gym 3 days a week for about a month now. Initially, I seemed to progress quickly, but now I’m stuck at 5.10; beyond that I can’t hold on to anything. My routine is to climb until I’m tired, then I immediately do a Read More

Round 70

Q: I have just turned 15 and I can boulder around V5 at the gym; strangely in competitions I can boulder up to V7 (I suppose due to high confidence)! Anyway, my endurance is rubbish–I can do very hard moves but then fall off because I’m too pumped to carry on. My ultimate goal is Read More

Round 68

Q: I plan to periodize my fingerboard workouts into a 2-3 week hypertrophy phase, a 2-3 week power phase and possibly 2 weeks of endurance at the end. What do you think about splitting up power, strength, and endurance training for climbing? –Tammo A: Dear Tammo, The fingerboard is indeed a good training platform, and Read More

Round 67

Q: Hi Eric, First–and I’m sure you get this a lot–thank you for all of the wonderful information. I have been climbing for about 15 months, and using your training tactics (from your books and this web site), and my own personal drive, I have really made some outstanding gains in my climbing performance. My Read More

Round 66

Q: I recently read your article on the benefits of heavy finger rolls to improve finger strength. When these are performed, once you have lowered the bar without dropping it, should I rest the bar on the rack and reset the exercise or should I roll the bar back up to the starting position using Read More

Round 65

Q: As a 43-year-old climber who only gets on the rock a few times per month, what three things can I do to improve climbing? –Tony A: Tony, Most important thing is to climb more. Really! Climbing technique and economy of movement is so so important to climbing your best, and getting on the rock Read More

Round 64

Q: Hi Eric, We (a few friends and I ) have built ourselves a nice little bouldering wall and we have set ourselves the goal for the summer months to improve our footwork. Before beginning with strength exercises, I´d like to a really solid foot technique. What would be the best training strategy in order Read More

Round 63

Q: Hi Eric, I climb 3 to 4 days a week with each session lasting up to 4 hours. Often I will go on a bike ride or hike after my session. I am wondering if it is good or bad to do a medium-intensity cardio session after a hard climbing workout? –Daniel (New York) Read More

Round 62

Q: Hi Eric, Is there any truth to the statement that a flash pump will decrease flexor function by up to 20% for as long as 24 hours? What’s the physiological explanation for why a flash pump occurs and why it should be avoided? –Jim (Arizona) A: Jim, I’ve seen no empirical evidence to support Read More

Round 61

Q: Hey Eric, I have a quick question regarding medial epicondylitis. Well first off, I am taking a month off to try to heal up my tendonitis, but I’m wondering if there any exercises that you would recommend to keep myself in shape that would not affect my elbow. It seems even when I do Read More

Round 60

Q: I find steeper routes to be quite easy compared to thin, technical face routes and slabs. How can I improve in these areas? –Jim (United Kingdom) A: Hey Jim, Thin face is a complex skill set that takes much time and practice to develop. Most important is growing a keen proprioceptive sense—that is, a Read More

Round 58

Q: Hi, I climb in a gym with overhanging walls, and great bouldering problems. I notice that I am not confident or do not feel strong enough to bump a hand when I need to for certain problems. I’m wondering how to improve my “bumps” and how to move my hips when I need to Read More

Round 57

Q: Hi Eric, My basic question is: how often and how hard should I train? I am sort of a new climber, as I have only had the time to be serious about it since May, but I have been climbing on and off for almost four years. I am almost positive that technique, and Read More

Round 56

Q: I just discovered the Training Center and, as a climber of only one year (V2 – V3), I found it to be very helpful! My question is about nutrition and getting stronger in climbing. I am 5’10 and 140lbs. I’m quite skinny, and I would like to become stronger in climbing. Can I train Read More

Round 55

Q: Hey Eric, What do you consider the best multivitamin out there? There is some debate between natural and synthetic. –Kyle (New York) A: Hi Kyle, Multi-vitamins are all pretty much the same, despite what the labels and advertisements say. Really! I buy the cheapest multi-vit I can find at CVS (usually around $12 for Read More

Round 54

Q: I’ve been doing body weight training for years, and I can do a pull-ups with 30lbs added. After reading Training for Climbing, I’ve added some endurance exercises (which I never used to do). What’s my best training mix now? –Andrew (New York) A: Hi Andrew, Good job on adding the endurance exercises. It really Read More

Round 53

Q: Hi Eric, I read your article regarding long term recovery, and I am wondering about the use of icing after exercise. I was under the impression that the micro-traumas induced by strenuous exercise always caused swelling to some extent, and that it was a good thing to ice following strenuous exercise. Is this incorrect? Read More

Round 52

Q: I am a 50-year old healthy male, but about 20 pounds overweight. I want to climb hard and eventually do some big walls and/or alpine climbs. My question is: Do you have some special tips for people like me? –Manuel (Mexico) A: Hello Manuel, YES, you can do it, but you need to elevate Read More

Round 51

Q: Hey Eric, First off, I LOVE your HIT training system! It is absolutely great. I was just wondering where exactly performance days fit into the 4-3-2-1 workout. Thanks for the help! –Michael (Maine) A: Hi Michael, Thanks for the kind words! In using the 4-3-2-1 cycle, you should simply replace a workout with a Read More

Round 50

Q: Is age 48 too old start climbing? Do I need to train to increase strength? –Anne (South Africa) A: Absolutely NOT, Anne! I know many people who began climbing in their 40s and 50s, and they are loving it! In fact, I occasionally climb with a couple that are in their 60s, and they Read More

Round 49

Q: Eric, I have to thank you for all your hard work in bringing this knowledge to us. My question relates to an alternative training program used by a few climbers like Mark Twight and Steve House. It’s called CrossFit. Is this a good training program for an aspiring 5.12 rock climber? –Jordan (British Columbia) Read More

Round 48

Q: My problem is in onsight competitions…I get cold feet and lose my confidence. I then often fall before I ever get pumped. What can I do? –Meir (Israel) A: Meir, You need to narrow your focus onto the process of climbing and let go of thinking about the outcome. This is hard to do Read More

Round 47

Q: Hello Eric, I am interested in developing crimp strength/endurance for a project that I have been working for some time. Would it be advisable to do some additional training for crimp strength in addition to the H.I.T. workout (perhaps additional sets of H.I.T. using the crimp holds)? –Casey (BC, Canada) A: Hi Casey, You Read More

Round 46

Q: What’s the best way to build confidence as a redpoint and competition on-sight climber? In particular, I’m interested in building the confidence of my climbing team at school. – Nic (Florida) A: Hello Nicholas, Ultimately, confidence must come from within–it is born from experience. So your best approach is to encourage your friends to Read More

Round 45

Q: Hi Eric, Thanks for your great books! I have read them all, and they are the best out there! I am age 29 and climbing for 6 years with an onsight ability of 7c+/13a. What grade would you suggest me to pick for my projects and is it better to work projects or to Read More

Round 44

Q: Hey Eric, I am 16 years old and I’ve been climbing one year. I’m wondering what you thought would help me get past 5.11a and achieve 5.12a by next summer? – Luke A: Hi Luke, As a climber of only one year, getting out climbing on a regular basis is most important. Indoor climbing Read More

Round 43

Q: We have only 30-foot walls at our gym; can you suggest an effective way to train for long-route stamina? – Ben (Florida) A: Hi Ben, Interval training is the ticket–it will increase both anaerobic and aerobic endurance, in a way most specific to climbing. Pick a route one to two number grades below your Read More

Round 42

Q: Hi Eric, I attended your seminar at VE this summer and bought your book. I have a question about training cycle. What are the some schedules for sport-specific (SS) training if I plan to climb on the weekend? – Steven (MN) A: Hi Steven, I propose two different schedules for SS training for weekend Read More

Round 41

Q: I have been improving steadily (sometimes slowly) over the last three years, and I would like to start more advanced training. I have read Training for Climbing and I would like to start using HIT strips, but don’t have access to a gym with HIT strips or body weights, and I don’t think I Read More

Round 40

Q: I am a solid 5.11 climber, but I’ve done two 5.12s in the gym by working them over and over. What is the best climbing strategy to become a solid 5.12 climber? – Lisa (CT) A: Hello Lisa, Sounds like you are doing great from just two years climbing! There are three approaches you Read More

Round 39

Q: My weight is right around 180 pounds and I just can’t lose any more weight. I eat great and run, not to mention climb. I also take creatine when I lift. So, how do I lose the extra weight (Fat)? – Joe A: Hi Joe, How tall are you? That helps me understand what Read More

Round 38

Q: I’ve been climbing for about 5 years and am stuck in the 5.10 range. How long would you anticipate it should take a 5.10a climber to achieve 5.12’s? – Scott (Orono, ME) A: Hi Scott, It’s tough to say how long it will take to get to 5.12a since it depends on many things Read More

Round 37

Q: I’m just beginning to climb at age 28, and I can only get to the climbing centre once a week. What training methods can I use at home? –John (Scotland) A: Hi John, Thanks for writing. Since you are new to climbing the most important thing is to climb! This is a technical skill Read More

Round 31

How do I devise a program to build maximum power and endurance? Q: How do I devise a program to build maximum power and maximum endurance, particularly in the fingers? – Matt (Provo, UT) A: Hi Matt, That’s a very broad question and tough to answer in a few sentences. First, remember that Power/Max strength Read More

Round 30

How to reconcile contradictory information on the web? Q: Hi Eric, I’ve read a lot of contradictory information on training on the web. For example, is it good to train to failure or is this a training mistake? Your clarifying thoughts would be very much appreciated. – Mark (Paris) A: Hi Marc, You will always Read More