TRAINING
Your Questions
Round 93
Dear Eric, I’m mostly a boulderer and I’m training for strength gains so I can continue to improve. Right now, I’ve been getting good strength gains from my Monday/Wednesday hangboard sessions and my Tuesday/Thursday weight-training sessions. I boulder outside most Saturdays, and I’m thinking about getting into competition climbing as well. What direction should I Read More
Round 92
I do 5 or so hours of bouldering and sport climbing at a gym during the week, but focus on trad and alpine experiences whenever time allows. I have read Training for Climbing (which is excellent) and have worked hypergravity and fingerboard training, as well as uneven pull-ups, into my workouts over the past three Read More
Round 91
Dear Eric, I have used the training program provided in your “How to Climb 5.12″ book and have seen great results. However, due to a new job I can no longer keep up with the program’s equipment requirements. So I have two questions: 1. What is the best hangboard out there? What should I get Read More
Round 89
I just bought your H.I.T stripes so that I can step-up my training. I’ve been climbing a few years and currently lead 5.12. What HIT Training advice can you provide me to make the most of my training…and push into the higher grades. -–Matthew (Idaho) Hi Matthew, You are doing great for just 2 years Read More
Round 88
What is a typical workout for the intermediate climber (I’ve been climbing one year and can do V6)? I don’t want to “just climb” anymore during my gym sessions. I want to train really hard so when I go outside I’m super psyched on sending my projects. Please help! Thank you for your time. BTW, Read More
Round 87
Q: Hi, I have an HIT wall at my house and am going to start doing the anaerobic endurance training on it and am wondering how many off days should be taken when doing these workouts. –Brett (Oklahoma) A: Hey Brett, Amount of rest depends on many things….intensity/volume of training, age, nutrition, genetics, etc. Typically Read More
Round 86
Q: My question regards my 10-year-old daughter. She took 3rd in the Youth D Sport Nationals last year. Lately she is having problems with her feet (trusting them) and with sequencing and visualizing routes. Can you give me some tips or drill to help her with her feet and sequences? Thanks, –Jim (California) A: Hi Read More
Round 84
Q: Hello Eric, Recently I found a beautiful route that is power endurance on tufas (compression moves, relatively big pinchy holds) on a 45-degree overhanging wall. Could you give me some tips for training for that specific route? I can do all the moves, but I get excessively pumped. –Dragos (Romania) A: Hi Dragos, You Read More
Round 83
Q: I’m 47 years old and a relatively new 5.10 climber, but really want to achieve the 5.12 grade. I’m naturally strong, but my body is much stronger than my hands. I have ordered your HIT system, but I wonder if I also need something more moderate to train on at home. Also, I don’t Read More
Round 82
Q: Hey Eric, As a climber of a few years, I have recently started bouldering pretty hard and would like to move more into hard sport climbing. My endurance is weak and my hardest flash so far is only 12c. So, I want to begin some climbing interval training to improve endurance. What angle wall Read More
Round 81
Q: Hi Eric, First, of all I want to thank you for writing “Training for climbing” which is simply the best! Now my question: Is it okay to do (uneven-grip) pull-ups and hypergravity hangboarding in one session or do these different exercises belong to completely different parts of the training circle? In addition to that Read More
Round 80
Q: I can generally onsite 11c/d, but I have huge issues breaking into 12a. I don’t feel like it is a strength or technique issue, yet I am totally stuck. Any insight you could give would be awesome. Thanks, –Zach (Minnesota) A: Hi Zach, Your assessment is probably accurate. Breaking into that next level is Read More
Round 79
Q: I am training for a huge climb in the Bugaboos–All Along the Watchtower on North Howser. Very long and hard; about 20 pitches, 5.12a. In the past I would simply train for a route like this by trad climbing as much as possible and nothing else. Do you have any additional suggestions for me Read More
Round 78
Q: Hey, so I’ve gotten to a pretty satisfying point in my climbing ability, and obviously I will continuously get better, but I noticed the other day that my eating habits are less than optimal. I’ve seen those “extra-endurance” powders that you can add to drinks, do those help at all? Any advice on nutrition Read More
Round 77
Q: My question is that on some days a week I am tired and I do not desire to go for even indoor climbing. I’ve been rock climbing for 22 years, and I no longer have motivation. How can I regain motivation to train and climb more? –Vangelis (Greece) A: Vangelis, Motivation comes from having Read More
Round 76
Q: Some days I lack desire to go training or climbing; perhaps because I’ve been climbing for more than 22 years. What can I do to increase motivation? –Vangelis (Greece) A: Hello Vangelis, Motivation comes from having compelling climbing goals–so if you don’t have a trip or goal climb in mind that you are training Read More
Round 75
Q: What are your suggestions for improving the ability to maintain cross tension (so compression boulder problems, as well as finesse cave problems) in terms of workouts or ways to practice? –Jonathan (California) A: Hi Jonathan, Compression problems are a relatively specific movement, so the best training is doing them! (No single exercise perfectly replicates Read More
Round 74
Q: Hi Eric, When is the best time to do climbing intervals? During all phases of climbing, or only during stamina or anaerobic endurance training phases? My second question is in regards to strength and finger training as parts of a training cycle. –Erin (Germany) A: Hi Erin, Steep-wall climbing intervals (as I’ve often written Read More
Round 73
Q: Hi Eric, About two months ago I stopped climbing due to recurring finger tendonitis on my right and left middle finger. I’m excited to start climbing again, and I would like to know how to slowly increase my load so that I can start climbing again (while minimizing risk of re-injury). –Jay (Michigan) A: Read More
Round 72
Q: My question regards the 4-3-2-1 training schedule. During the 4 weeks of endurance training, I’m wondering if my fingerboard workouts should be geared toward endurance also? I have been doing weighted workout outs on my fingerboards and HIT strips during this phase I was just wondering if that is the correct approach. –Rusty (Oklahoma) Read More
Round 68
Q: I plan to periodize my fingerboard workouts into a 2-3 week hypertrophy phase, a 2-3 week power phase and possibly 2 weeks of endurance at the end. What do you think about splitting up power, strength, and endurance training for climbing? –Tammo A: Dear Tammo, The fingerboard is indeed a good training platform, and Read More
Round 67
Q: Hi Eric, First–and I’m sure you get this a lot–thank you for all of the wonderful information. I have been climbing for about 15 months, and using your training tactics (from your books and this web site), and my own personal drive, I have really made some outstanding gains in my climbing performance. My Read More
Round 66
Q: I recently read your article on the benefits of heavy finger rolls to improve finger strength. When these are performed, once you have lowered the bar without dropping it, should I rest the bar on the rack and reset the exercise or should I roll the bar back up to the starting position using Read More
Round 65
Q: As a 43-year-old climber who only gets on the rock a few times per month, what three things can I do to improve climbing? –Tony A: Tony, Most important thing is to climb more. Really! Climbing technique and economy of movement is so so important to climbing your best, and getting on the rock Read More
Round 64
Q: Hi Eric, We (a few friends and I ) have built ourselves a nice little bouldering wall and we have set ourselves the goal for the summer months to improve our footwork. Before beginning with strength exercises, I´d like to a really solid foot technique. What would be the best training strategy in order Read More
Round 62
Q: Hi Eric, Is there any truth to the statement that a flash pump will decrease flexor function by up to 20% for as long as 24 hours? What’s the physiological explanation for why a flash pump occurs and why it should be avoided? –Jim (Arizona) A: Jim, I’ve seen no empirical evidence to support Read More
Round 61
Q: Hey Eric, I have a quick question regarding medial epicondylitis. Well first off, I am taking a month off to try to heal up my tendonitis, but I’m wondering if there any exercises that you would recommend to keep myself in shape that would not affect my elbow. It seems even when I do Read More
Round 60
Q: I find steeper routes to be quite easy compared to thin, technical face routes and slabs. How can I improve in these areas? –Jim (United Kingdom) A: Hey Jim, Thin face is a complex skill set that takes much time and practice to develop. Most important is growing a keen proprioceptive sense—that is, a Read More
Round 56
Q: I just discovered the Training Center and, as a climber of only one year (V2 – V3), I found it to be very helpful! My question is about nutrition and getting stronger in climbing. I am 5’10 and 140lbs. I’m quite skinny, and I would like to become stronger in climbing. Can I train Read More
Round 55
Q: Hey Eric, What do you consider the best multivitamin out there? There is some debate between natural and synthetic. –Kyle (New York) A: Hi Kyle, Multi-vitamins are all pretty much the same, despite what the labels and advertisements say. Really! I buy the cheapest multi-vit I can find at CVS (usually around $12 for Read More
Round 54
Q: I’ve been doing body weight training for years, and I can do a pull-ups with 30lbs added. After reading Training for Climbing, I’ve added some endurance exercises (which I never used to do). What’s my best training mix now? –Andrew (New York) A: Hi Andrew, Good job on adding the endurance exercises. It really Read More
Round 53
Q: Hi Eric, I read your article regarding long term recovery, and I am wondering about the use of icing after exercise. I was under the impression that the micro-traumas induced by strenuous exercise always caused swelling to some extent, and that it was a good thing to ice following strenuous exercise. Is this incorrect? Read More
Round 52
Q: I am a 50-year old healthy male, but about 20 pounds overweight. I want to climb hard and eventually do some big walls and/or alpine climbs. My question is: Do you have some special tips for people like me? –Manuel (Mexico) A: Hello Manuel, YES, you can do it, but you need to elevate Read More
Round 51
Q: Hey Eric, First off, I LOVE your HIT training system! It is absolutely great. I was just wondering where exactly performance days fit into the 4-3-2-1 workout. Thanks for the help! –Michael (Maine) A: Hi Michael, Thanks for the kind words! In using the 4-3-2-1 cycle, you should simply replace a workout with a Read More
Round 50
Q: Is age 48 too old start climbing? Do I need to train to increase strength? –Anne (South Africa) A: Absolutely NOT, Anne! I know many people who began climbing in their 40s and 50s, and they are loving it! In fact, I occasionally climb with a couple that are in their 60s, and they Read More
Round 49
Q: Eric, I have to thank you for all your hard work in bringing this knowledge to us. My question relates to an alternative training program used by a few climbers like Mark Twight and Steve House. It’s called CrossFit. Is this a good training program for an aspiring 5.12 rock climber? –Jordan (British Columbia) Read More
Round 48
Q: My problem is in onsight competitions…I get cold feet and lose my confidence. I then often fall before I ever get pumped. What can I do? –Meir (Israel) A: Meir, You need to narrow your focus onto the process of climbing and let go of thinking about the outcome. This is hard to do Read More
Round 47
Q: Hello Eric, I am interested in developing crimp strength/endurance for a project that I have been working for some time. Would it be advisable to do some additional training for crimp strength in addition to the H.I.T. workout (perhaps additional sets of H.I.T. using the crimp holds)? –Casey (BC, Canada) A: Hi Casey, You Read More
Round 46
Q: What’s the best way to build confidence as a redpoint and competition on-sight climber? In particular, I’m interested in building the confidence of my climbing team at school. – Nic (Florida) A: Hello Nicholas, Ultimately, confidence must come from within–it is born from experience. So your best approach is to encourage your friends to Read More
Round 44
Q: Hey Eric, I am 16 years old and I’ve been climbing one year. I’m wondering what you thought would help me get past 5.11a and achieve 5.12a by next summer? – Luke A: Hi Luke, As a climber of only one year, getting out climbing on a regular basis is most important. Indoor climbing Read More
Round 43
Q: We have only 30-foot walls at our gym; can you suggest an effective way to train for long-route stamina? – Ben (Florida) A: Hi Ben, Interval training is the ticket–it will increase both anaerobic and aerobic endurance, in a way most specific to climbing. Pick a route one to two number grades below your Read More
Round 42
Q: Hi Eric, I attended your seminar at VE this summer and bought your book. I have a question about training cycle. What are the some schedules for sport-specific (SS) training if I plan to climb on the weekend? – Steven (MN) A: Hi Steven, I propose two different schedules for SS training for weekend Read More
Round 41
Q: I have been improving steadily (sometimes slowly) over the last three years, and I would like to start more advanced training. I have read Training for Climbing and I would like to start using HIT strips, but don’t have access to a gym with HIT strips or body weights, and I don’t think I Read More
Round 40
Q: I am a solid 5.11 climber, but I’ve done two 5.12s in the gym by working them over and over. What is the best climbing strategy to become a solid 5.12 climber? – Lisa (CT) A: Hello Lisa, Sounds like you are doing great from just two years climbing! There are three approaches you Read More
Round 31
How do I devise a program to build maximum power and endurance? Q: How do I devise a program to build maximum power and maximum endurance, particularly in the fingers? – Matt (Provo, UT) A: Hi Matt, That’s a very broad question and tough to answer in a few sentences. First, remember that Power/Max strength Read More
Round 30
How to reconcile contradictory information on the web? Q: Hi Eric, I’ve read a lot of contradictory information on training on the web. For example, is it good to train to failure or is this a training mistake? Your clarifying thoughts would be very much appreciated. – Mark (Paris) A: Hi Marc, You will always Read More
Round 28
What kind of training can I do on rest days from climbing?| Q: I get really bored on rest days and would like an activity that compliments my rock climbing but won’t be counted as “overtraining.” What can I do on these rest days from climbing? — Robbie (Edinburgh, Scotland) A: Hello Robbie, This is Read More
Round 27
How to enhance training to break plateau? Q: I haven’t improved since 2002, and I want to increase my training. I will begin adding HIT to my hard bouldering route. How often can I do this? – Tobbe (Sweden) A: Hi Tobbe, HIT only addresses maximum strength, and what’s holding you back could be lack Read More
Round 26
Q: When is the best time to train antagonist muscles; the day after climbing (i.e. a rest day from climbing) or on a climbing day? — Vojko (Koper, Slovenia) A: Antagonist muscle training should not strenuous, so you can fit it in on either a climbing or rest day. If I’m climbing outside a lot, Read More
Round 25
How long should I rest between training exercises? Q: How long should I rest between training exercises and climbing repetitions? — Eddi (Levanger, Norway) A: Amount of rest between exercises influences the training outcome and adaptations. For instance, longer rests between exercises (3 to 5 minutes or more) will allow you to train maximally and Read More
Round 23
Is it better to train Fingerboard Repeaters with straight or bent arms? Q: Is it better to train Fingerboard Repeaters with straight or bent arms? – Josh (Lancaster, PA) A: A good question, Josh. It’s best to train on fingerboards with straight arms when working grip strength; however, doing pull-ups on a variety of holds Read More
Round 22
How long to let A2 pulley injury heal before beginning HIT Workout?Q: I have a recently injured A2 pulley, but am still able to boulder in the gym without pain. I would like to start my winter training and incorporate some H.I.T. this year. How long should I let this injury heal before proceeding? –Paul Read More
Round 21
What can I do to improve my finger strength? Q: Right now I train everyday with pull-ups, Frenchies, and the hangboard (three times a day except for Sundays). I don’t think it’s enough… what more can I do to improve my finger-strength? – Benjo (Philippines) A: Benjo, It sounds to me like you are training Read More
Round 20
What’s a good workout to improve grip strength? Q: What is a good workout to improve grip strength on sloper holds. — Trevor (B.C. Canada) A: Hello Trevor, Here are two good sloper-training strategies that you can put to work beginning today. 1. Perform traverses using ONLY the sloper grip position. This will feel contrived, Read More
Round 19
What’s the best way for a beginner to improve finger strength? Q: I’m new to climbing and I’m wondering how to improve in my finger strength. What exercises should I do? -Alex (Perth Scotland) A: Hello Alex, If you’ve been climbing less than a year or two, then the best thing you can do to Read More
Round 18
What advice to you have for a beginner wanting to enter bouldering comps? Q: I want to train for bouldering competitions and am looking for training recommendations. P.S. I’m fairly new to climbing, currently boulder V2, and I live next to a boulder field. -Kevin (Ogden, UT) A: Aren’t you lucky Kevin…living next to a Read More
Round 17
What’s the best way for a beginning climber to train finger strength? Q: I’ve heard that beginners shouldn’t focus on finger strength training because tendons take a long time to adapt to the rigors of climbing. Still, I want to develop more finger strength as quickly as possible. What would be the best way to Read More
Round 16
How often should I supplement climbing with strength training activities? Q: I climb outside 3 to 4 days per week, and I am wondering how often I should supplement climbing outside climbing with the Pump Rocks exercises you’ve listed on the website? Also, what exercises can my girlfriend do with the pump rocks she can Read More
Round 15
Can you provide a sample diet for optimal performance? Q: Can you give me a breakdown of sample daily diet designed for performance and recovery? — Lise (Banff, Alberta) A: Great question, Lise. Diet is a vital area overlooked by many climbers–it plays a big role in endurance, concentration, body composition, and recovery ability. I’ve Read More
Round 14
Are there any beneficial food supplements? Q: Are there certain food supplements that would be beneficial for climbing? – Niall (Ireland) A: Hello Niall, There are a few supplements that I view as helpful and completely safe (and legal). First is a daily multivitamin, just to make sure you are getting the minimum daily requirement Read More
Round 13
How much climbing is too much? Q: I am an 18-year old boulderer of six months and I’m highly motivated to improve (I currently send V8). I climb five to seven days per week, but many people tell me that’s too much. Is there such thing as climbing too much? — Jordan (California) A: Jordan, Read More
Round 11
What’s the best way to improve bouldering and lead ability? Q: What is the best way to improve my bouldering and lead abilities? -Jason (Pittsburgh, PA) A: There are two approaches to elevating your abilities, and you should place equal focus on both: Occasionally stretch the boundaries of what you are able to do. This Read More
Round 10
What is the best way to increase my endurance? Q: What is the best way to increase my endurance and recovery time? Thanks for the great site! –Casey (Seattle, WA) A: Casey, You can approach the subject of “increasing endurance” from two directions. 1.) Interval training at the gym is a great training strategy to Read More
Round 8
How to train for crack climbing indoors? Q: Dear Eric, I’m a solid 5.10 climber (just breaking into 5.11 sport routes), however, my trad skills remain limited to about 5.9. I’d really like to improve so as to do longer classic crack routes. Unfortunately, I live in Chicago during the school year and can only Read More
Round 7
What is the optimal recovery interval between climbs? Q: What is the optimal recovery interval between climbs? — Ellis (England) A: Ellis, Optimal recovery time is directly proportional to the length of climbs you are doing. For instance, in sending short boulder problems (say, a maximum of 30 seconds of hard climbing) you only need Read More
Round 6
What’s the best entry-level training for climbing? Q: Hey Eric, I am currently reading your book, Training for Climbing and I am enjoying learning the science behind effective training. However, I would like your feedback on something. Reading between the lines, it seems you have subtly indicated that if you are really “out of shape” Read More
Round 5
What is the best wall training strategy for building Anaerobic Endurance? Q: Eric, I have a question about the 2-week A-E (“power endurance”) phase as described in your book as part of the “4-3-2-1 training cycle.” I have been doing 5 minute burns on my woody (45-deg. wall), with 15 minutes off. Doing about 5 Read More
Round 4
How to lose weight and enhance performance? Q: As a 44-year-old, I’ve acquired some extra baggage that I’d like to lose. Climbing has helped me take off about 20 pounds, however, I need to lose about another 25 pounds. My weight loss has recently reached a plateau, so I’d appreciate some advice for producing further Read More
Round 3
How to train to improve on 5.9s and 5.10s? Q: Eric, I have been climbing 2 years–very seriously for the past year. I have recently begun working on 5.11′s on TR, but still struggle with 5.9′s on lead. Technique wise the moves are easy, but the extra time I spend clipping in seems to pump Read More
Round 2
How can I lose excess bodyfat? Q: How can I lose excess weight and burn fat while climbing. If I kept the same amount of muscle, but reduced my bodyfat I believe I could climb better. – Josh (Kansas City, MO) A: Hey Josh, Climbing and training for climbing are not good fat-burning activities. Nothing Read More
Round 1
What is the “secret” to excelling at different styles of climbing and at all climbing areas? Q: I am a climber that is primarily interested in climbing harder and harder traditional routes, even though I do enjoy all other facets of the climbing experience–bouldering, aid, sport, etc. Hopefully, I will one day be climbing 5.13 Read More
NEWS
Nicros Holds by The Pound Sale
February 17th, 2012Nicros’ annual holds by the pound sale will be held on Sunday, February 26th, 2012. Buy handholds for ONLY $3 per pound.
VE-Minneapolis’ Grand Opening & Pro Climber Alex Johnson
November 17th, 2011VE–Minneapolis celebrated its opening with a Grand Opening Event.
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