Q: How much weight do you use for your HIT Workouts?
A: I developed the HIT Workout over several years in the early- to mid-1990s, and I’ve since incorporated HIT as part of my year-round training for climbing. Initially, I trained with weights in the 5 to 15 pound range, but I found that the incredible effectiveness of this routine had me doubling the weights in a matter of months. With the Y2K version of the HIT Strips (3rd generation Strips), I’m using about 60 lbs for my strongest grip positions (crimp, and 1st and 2nd team two finger) and about 30 pound for the 3rd team two finger and pinch. At 160 lbs body weight, that has me training my most important grips at a body weight of 220lbs. Now that’s hypergravity! After a while, climbing at regular body weight starts to feel strangely “light”, kind of like walking after you’ve taken off a heavy backpack or ski boots. Ever feel that effect?
I must stress that it took me over three years to gradually increase my weights up to that level. Also, I’ve been climbing over 25 years, so my tendons have had decades to slowly increase their strength. If you’re going to do HIT Workouts, you need to be mature and follow the protocol precisely! That means, limiting HIT Workouts and frequency, getting proper rest and nutrition, engaging in a slow warm-up, and committing to protective taping (when training with weight).
In 2004, we began production of the 4th Generation of HIT Strips which feature slightly shallower holds (and incorporate NICROS’ new Extreme Hold Mix). I made this modification based on feedback from countless climbers who have become so strong from HIT training that they just couldn’t add any extra weight (resistance) to their body! The shallower grips provide the same targeted training, but allow you to train at lower weights. This is a definite improvement that you’ll appreciate as you find your training weight growing higher and higher.
Q: I’ve been using your HIT Workout, and the results are impressive! Upon completing a HIT Workout, however, it seems that while my forearms are blown, the muscles in my upper arms and back are not. Can I do any other training exercises on my HIT Workout day?
A: While further finger training will be of no benefit, I do encourage you to do a brief pull-muscle workout to complete the “blowout!” I suggest a few sets of one-arm lock-offs or a few sets of heavy lat pulldowns, weighted pull-ups, or uneven grip pull-ups. Another wall-training option is to do a few “lock-off laps” using the largest holds on your steep wall. For example, I finish my workout with five 10- to 20-move laps, where each move employs a lock-off and long reach to the next large hand hold. This serves as the perfect “big muscle” coup de grace.
Q: A CLIMBING magazine review of “System Training” mentioned that you can not train underclings on your HIT Strips. Is there a supplemental undercling exercise I should be doing in addition to my HIT Workout?
A: In the article you mentioned, the CLIMBING mag “reviewer” was mistaken in his understanding of the fundamentals of training for climbing. Before I answer your question, let me straighten out two misconceptions that exist (partially as a result of CLIMBING’s review).
Now back to your original question. The best way to train the muscles used in the undercling arm position is to do a traverse or boulder problem that includes several underclings back-to-back. Using an indoor wall is best as you can do 10- to 20-move traverses exclusively with underclings. Do a few sets, underclinging with your arm at different elbow angles. For example, do a set (10 to 20-move lap) with low underclings near your thigh, then a set with waist-high underclings and finish with a set of high underclings near your face.
Q: Can I do HIT Workouts using modular holds instead of your HIT Strips?
A: Yes, if you have 10 identical two finger pocket holds, 10 identical crimp holds, 10 identical open-hand buckets, and 10 identical pinch holds that are all “usable” on a 50-degree overhanging wall. Of course, if you don’t have these holds it will cost you as much or more than the HIT Strips and HIT Pinches to buy them. Even more important, using HIT Strips keeps you focused on the goal of only using the specific grip being trained–there’s no cheating. Whereas using modular holds encourages you to “break” the sequence (and thus the effectiveness) when you get pumped and start grabbing holds other than the grip being trained. Finally, the HIT Strips are optimized for use of the proper angle wall and possess safe, ergonomic radius of curvature to lower the pain factor when climbing with weight.
Copyright 2013 Eric J. Hörst. All rights reserved.