Articles

Best Nicros Training Holds

Killer Training Holds for Your Training Wall!

If you are a weekend warrior (like me), then you probably spend almost as much time training on plastic as you do pulling down on real rock. A steep home wall is central to a good training program, and the holds you use play a big role in making your sessions fun and effective.

Obviously it’s good to have a wide variety of holds on your wall, however some shapes are simply better “training holds” than others. To me a good training hold is one that’s easy on the skin (void of sharp edges), easy to grab when climbing powerfully (non-complex), and possesses a useable feature (edge, pocket, pinch) when placed on an overhanging wall. Over the years I’ve created several “training sets” for Nicros that meet the these criteria–my MO is to design shapes that I want for my training wall, and therefore chances are you will like them too! Of course, Nicros has many talented shapers and there are dozens of other sets that you will enjoy training on.

Out of Nicros’ 150-plus sets of holds, here are 35 sets that are optimal for steep-wall training. No doubt there are many other sets that you’ll love climbing on too, but these are the sets that most fit the “training hold” criteria above.

Click here to view Nicros Training Tools and Handhold.

SET
DESCRIPTION
ANGLE
SIZE
# of HOLDS
SHAPER
Micros #2
tiny edges
10 – 45
S
10
“team Nicros”
Micros #3
shallow edges
20 – 50
S
10
“team Nicros”
Shakes
shallow edges
20 – 50
M
7
Josh Helke
Groovy 60s
shallow edges
45 – 65
M
7
Josh Helke
30-deg. crimps
shallow edges
10 – 40
S/M
10
Eric Hörst
45-deg. crimps
shallow edges
20 – 55
S
10
Eric Hörst
Finesse
shallow edges
0 – 30
M
6
Andy Raether
Block Buster
shallow edges
0 – 30
S/M
5
Andy Raether
Vice
shallow edges
20 – 45
M
4
Nic Oklobzija
Chucks
shallow edges
10 – 45
M
5
Brian Camp
EH Edgification
medium edges
10 – 45
M
6
Eric Hörst
Pesos
medium edges
20 – 50
M
7
Andy Raether
Diff-Tex™ Dunes
medium edges
0 – 30
M
5
Dan Chancellor
Cuatro Fabuloso
medium edges
20 – 45
M
4
Andy Raether
EH Training Edges
medium edges
20 – 50
S/M
10
Eric Hörst
Whitecaps
medium edges
10 – 45
M
5
Nic Oklobzija
EH Training Pockets
medium pockets
20 – 55
L
10
Eric Hörst
Combat
shallow pinches
10 – 45
M
5
Nic Oklobzija
Drumlins
pinches/edges
20 – 50
M
5
Andy Raether
Eskers
pinches
0 – 45
M
4
Andy Raether
Krushers
pinches
0 – 45
M
7
Nic Oklobzija
Glacial Grooves
pinches/edges
0 – 45
M
5
Andy Raether
EH Campus 1
mix
30 – 55
M/L
10
Eric Hörst
EH Campus 2
mix
30 – 55
M/L
10
Eric Hörst
EH Campus 3
mix
30 – 55
M/L
10
Eric Hörst
J.E.S.I.
mix
0 – 45
L
4
Andy Raether
Threshers
medium jug
30 – 60
M
6
Jon Connant
Digital Scales
edges/jugs
20 – 50
M
8
Nic Oklobzija
Learning to Fly
jugs
20 – 50
L
4
Andy Raether
Lumpy Jugs
jugs
20 – 50
M
5
G. Westmoreland
C-Squared
jugs
20 – 60
L
5
Chris Craft
Microofs
jugs & roofs
45 – 90
L
10
Kevin Cieszkowski
Jugheads
jugs
10 – 50
L
10
Nate Postma
Roofs 1
killer roofs!
45 – 90
XL
10
Nate Postma

 

NOTE: “Angle” are the usuable wall angles (degrees past vertical) for each set. “Size” relates to the diameter and profile of the holds compared to other sets. “Price” is the normal retail price, although we place certain sets on sale each month.


Copyright 2008 Eric J. Hörst. All rights reserved.