TRAINING

Training Center

Photo courtesy of www.BrayackMedia.com

Photo courtesy of www.BrayackMedia.com

 

Welcome to the new Nicros Training Center, the web’s #1 resource on climbing performance! Only here will you find leading-edge sport science and over 30 years of experience dovetailed into a single free website that will help you train smarter and climb harder!

Regardless of your climbing preference—bouldering, cragging, or big walls—we will bring you fresh ideas and techniques to help improve your climbing. We welcome you to send us a training question and to subscribe to our monthly training e-newsletter, TC Beta (sent out around the middle of each month).

Nicros is proud to produce some of the world’s best and most innovative climbing walls, holds, and training products. Whether you are building a home wall, climbing gym, or just buying a few holds, we look forward to hearing from you. You can place an order on this site or by calling 1-800-699-1975.


Featured Articles – April 2014


  • Core Training – Part 1 – Talk of core conditioning is in vogue these days, and the six-pack-ab look is indeed highly coveted by climbers and nonclimbers alike. So what’s the best method of training these muscles?
    Read more>>
  • VIDEO: Here’s a great interview with NICROS’ athlete Daniel Woods at the Kalimnos climbing festival. Looks like an amazing place to climb!
  • Question & Answer – Round 114: I boulder up to V9 and lead 12+, but can’t break into the 5.13 grade. What one or two things should I should focus on to help me break the 5.13 barrier? –Todd (Lexington, KY)
  • Effective Pull-up Training – Part #1 – This most obvious exercise for climbers is very useful for beginners, but it’s next to worthless for enhancing the capabilities of an elite climber. If you are unable to do a single set of 15 pull-ups then you should continue training with them about three days per week…
    Read more>>
  • VIDEO: Watch NICROS Athlete Daniel Woods sending The Wheel of Life (9a/V16), one of the hardest boulder problems in the word, at the Grampians of Victoria, Australia!
  • Question & Answer – Round 112: Having just relocated to Lexington, KY, I’m really looking forward to climbing at the Red River Gorge. However, between a busy new job, a wife who works full time, and two very young kids, I’ll probably only get to the Red a couple times per month and the only training materials I have at home are some rock rings, a pull up bar, and a hangboard. How can I train enough at home (with these limited tools) so I don’t get pumped silly when I do have the time to get to the gorge? –Scott (Kentucky)
  • Kid Crushers – An Overview of Training Youth Climbers – With the growing popularity of youth climbing competitions and the recent press of pre-teen climbers sending V12 and 5.14 routes, many parents and coaches are curious about the best way for a youth climber to train. In this article you’ll learn how to foster a youngster’s interest in climbing, while at the same time keeping it safe and fun!
    Read more>>
  • VIDEO: RMNP is one of the best summer destinations for bouldering in American. Watch NICROS Athlete Jon Cardwell take down some hard alpine problems!
  • Question & Answer – Round 111: A big goal of mine for the last few years has been to train hard enough to onsight my first 5.13. I have been climbing long enough to know that each person’s training should be specific and determined by a number of variables. What I don’t know is if to climb at this level one needs to focus on intensity or just putting more time in? –Nate (Colorado)
  • 6 Enemies of Your Concentration – Researchers have compared successful and less-successful performers and determined that the ability to maintain concentration is a primary discriminating factor. The best performers were less likely to be distracted by irrelevant stimuli or to succumb to worry and outcome-oriented thoughts. Read more>>
  • Question & Answer – Round 109: After training this winter, I was really stoked to get back on real rock because I’ve been dying to get to V7, but last weekend when we finally got out I realized that I’ve gotten way stronger indoors with major improvements, but outside on the boulders, I seem to be stuck at V6. Is there something more to my training (other than getting back outside every weekend) that I need to add to bust through this plateau? Thanks a lot for the help Eric! –Megun (Tennessee)

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • 3 Exercises for a Crushing Grip As a climbing coach of more than two decades, one of the most common questions I’m asked is “how to train for greater grip strength.” While gains in grip strength come quickly during your formative days, it’s not uncommon for grip strength to plateau after a few years of regular climbing.
  • Question & Answer – Round 95: Hello Eric, I built a woody in my garage 3 years ago and put up your HIT system. I weigh about 180lbs and am wondering what the maximum weight you recommend for each grip. Currently, I use 35lbs for Crimp, 10lbs for Pinch, 10lbs 3rd team two-finger pocket, 30lbs 2nd and 1st team two-finger pockets, 45lbs for open hand grip. I am getting significantly stronger this garage season, and am worried my strength will surpass my tendons and/or judgement. –Matt (Montana)