TRAINING

Training Center

Michaela Kiersch sending Last of the Bohicians (5.13d), Red River Gorge, KY

Michaela Kiersch sending Last of the Bohicians (5.13d), Red River Gorge, KY

Welcome to the Training Center!

Welcome to the new Nicros Training Center, the web’s #1 resource on climbing performance! Only here will you find leading-edge sport science and over 30 years of experience dovetailed into a single free website that will help you train smarter and climb harder!

Regardless of your climbing preference—bouldering, cragging, or big walls—we will bring you fresh ideas and techniques to help improve your climbing. We welcome you to send us a training question and to subscribe to our monthly training e-newsletter, TC Beta.

Nicros is proud to produce some of the world’s best and most innovative climbing walls, holds, and training products. Whether you are building a home wall, climbing gym, or just buying a few holds, we look forward to hearing from you. You can place an order on this site or by calling 1-800-699-1975.

Hörst photo.


Featured Articles - June 2013

  • 6 Enemies of Your Concentration – Researchers have compared successful and less-successful performers and determined that the ability to maintain concentration is a primary discriminating factor. The best performers were less likely to be distracted by irrelevant stimuli or to succumb to worry and outcome-oriented thoughts. Read more>>
  • Question & Answer – Round 109: After training this winter, I was really stoked to get back on real rock because I’ve been dying to get to V7, but last weekend when we finally got out I realized that I’ve gotten way stronger indoors with major improvements, but outside on the boulders, I seem to be stuck at V6. Is there something more to my training (other than getting back outside every weekend) that I need to add to bust through this plateau? Thanks a lot for the help Eric! –Megun (Tennessee)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • 3 Exercises for a Crushing Grip As a climbing coach of more than two decades, one of the most common questions I’m asked is “how to train for greater grip strength.” While gains in grip strength come quickly during your formative days, it’s not uncommon for grip strength to plateau after a few years of regular climbing.
  • Question & Answer – Round 95: Hello Eric, I built a woody in my garage 3 years ago and put up your HIT system. I weigh about 180lbs and am wondering what the maximum weight you recommend for each grip. Currently, I use 35lbs for Crimp, 10lbs for Pinch, 10lbs 3rd team two-finger pocket, 30lbs 2nd and 1st team two-finger pockets, 45lbs for open hand grip. I am getting significantly stronger this garage season, and am worried my strength will surpass my tendons and/or judgement. –Matt (Montana)