TRAINING

Michaela Kiersch sending Last of the Bohicians (5.13d), Red River Gorge, KY

Welcome to the Training Center!

Welcome to the new Nicros Training Center, the web’s #1 resource on climbing performance! Only here will you find leading-edge sport science and over 30 years of experience dovetailed into a single free website that will help you train smarter and climb harder!

Regardless of your climbing preference—bouldering, cragging, or big walls—we will bring you fresh ideas and techniques to help improve your climbing. We welcome you to send us a training question and to subscribe to our monthly training e-newsletter, TC Beta.

Nicros is proud to produce some of the world’s best and most innovative climbing walls, holds, and training products. Whether you are building a home wall, climbing gym, or just buying a few holds, we look forward to hearing from you. You can place an order on this site or by calling 1-800-699-1975.

Hörst photo.

Featured Articles - June 2013

• 6 Enemies of Your Concentration – Researchers have compared successful and less-successful performers and determined that the ability to maintain concentration is a primary discriminating factor. The best performers were less likely to be distracted by irrelevant stimuli or to succumb to worry and outcome-oriented thoughts. Read more>>
• VIDEO: NICROS Athlete Alex Johnson, along with Kati Peters and a little friend, go on a bouldering “send spree” at Red Rock, NV.
• Question & Answer – Round 109: After training this winter, I was really stoked to get back on real rock because I’ve been dying to get to V7, but last weekend when we finally got out I realized that I’ve gotten way stronger indoors with major improvements, but outside on the boulders, I seem to be stuck at V6. Is there something more to my training (other than getting back outside every weekend) that I need to add to bust through this plateau? Thanks a lot for the help Eric! –Megun (Tennessee)

• The Key to Long-term Improvement: Challenging Yourself in New and Different Ways! - Becoming a true master of rock requires a sustained love of the sport and a dedication to learning that lasts a lifetime. The key to sustaining an upward trajectory over the long term is to challenge yourself regularly and avoid settling into one form of climbing for too long.
• VIDEO: NICROS Athlete Daniel Woods making a quick second ascent of a V15 alpine boulder problem Bridge of Ashes, in Colorado.
• Question & Answer – Round 108: I have been using the 4-3-2-1 macro cycle for training and am currently on the 1 week of rest phase, prior to a (hopefully) peaking trip to Horse Pens 40. My question: Is it best to just take it easy and relax during the cycle-ending rest week or should I maintain some kind of an active routine? – Javier (Louisiana)

• How to Train Optimally…and Become a Maximum Climber – Optimal training is rarely about doing more training, but instead a matter of doing more of the right kinds of training.
• VIDEO: He grew up climbing on NICROS holds. Watch 10-year-old Jonathan Hörst become the youngest person to climb 5.14a, at the Red River Gorge.
• Question & Answer – Round 107: On the days that I climb in the bouldering gym I would like to add some hangboard workouts. However, I usually do antagonist workouts after my gym sessions 2 times per week and have limited time in the evenings. Would it be beneficial to do hangboard or HIT workouts in the mornings (after running/warming up) before my gym workouts in the evenings? –Abby (California)

• The BEST Training Program Ever! – While many climbers simply improvise their workouts (some like a musician who plays all the wrong notes), effective training for climbing demands that you embark on an intelligent, science-based program. Here’s a 15-week periodization program that works!
• VIDEO: NICROS athlete, Alex Johnson, sending the beautiful Luminance (V9), at Bishop last December. Go Alex!
• Question & Answer – Round 106: Is it a good training strategy to aim for getting delay-onset muscle soreness (DOMS) after every workkout?  –Armand (Holland)

• H.I.T. System Training Tips – How to HIT Strip train most effectively!
• VIDEO: Check out NICROS athlete, Daniel Woods, sending Bubble Wrap (B3), an indoor power problem that resisted climbers’ attempts for nearly five years!
• Question & Answer – Round 105: One of my climbing goals is to sport lead into the 12s and my endurance is limiting me at this time. What’s my best approach to keep improving? –David (Minneapolis, MN)

• H.I.T. Strip Training – Cutting edge training for maximum grip strength!
• VIDEO: NICROS athlete, Jon Cardwell, sending Circadian Rhythm (V13), located in the foothills of Poudre Canyon just outside Fort Collins, CO.
• Question & Answer – Round 104: I’m just about finished building a small HIT wall at home and my priority is to develop my open-hand strength to break my crimp addiction. What my best way to achieve this goal? –Kaveh (Ontario)

• Long-Duration Isometrics In this article I’m going to outline one such smart-training strategy that you can employ to target common physical constraints.
• VIDEO: NICROS athlete, Cameron Horst, redpointing Galactic Emperor (5.14a) at Ten Sleep, WY.
• Question & Answer – Round 103: I’m just returning to climbing after a layout due to injury. I was thinking of implementing a general strength training program for the next couple of months before I resumed my climbing-specific training. Do you think this is wise? –Josh (Illinois)

• The Top 5 Finger Strength Exercises I’m often asked to provide a list of the best exercises for training finger (grip) strength. While there are dozens of different exercises (and variations thereof) that I could describe, in this article I present a generalized list of training techniques.
• VIDEO: NICROS athlete, Alex Johnson, sending Stained Glass (V10) at Bishop, CA.
• Question & Answer – Round 102: I’m new to climbing and I aspire to climb the higher grades someday. My problem is that my sports background is rowing and American Football, so I feel like I’m too heavy to climb hard. Should I focus on dropping my weight or improving my strength? –Ken (New York)

• The Importance of “Process Feedback” in Elevating Performance
• VIDEO: NICROS athlete, Daniel Woods, establishing the first ascent of White Noise (8c) at RMNP.
• Question & Answer – Round 101: Your training articles have helped me to advance from 11c to 12c in the past year—thanks! Now, I want to increase my training intensity and maybe even upgrade to working out 5 or 6 days per week. What kind of supplements could I take to help my training and recovery? –Amir

• Do the Twist! Learn why the twist-lock is a must-know move for steep routes.
• VIDEO: NICROS athlete, Paul Robinson, sending V13 in Spain! “If at first you don’t succeed….”
• Question & Answer – Round 100: After many years of climbing I’ve realized that I always wear out my left shoe (tip of the big toe) before my right. Could this be indicative of a footwork issue? –Mike (Maryland)

• Keep Your Cool! Learn 3 strategies for controlling your physical and emotional states in order to prevail on difficult/stressful routes.
• VIDEO: Daniel Wood’s bouldering in RMNP, along with a glimpse at his training for his V-hard projects!
• Question & Answer – Round 99: I frequently travel for days in a row–do you have any suggestions for training I can use while on the road? Currently, I do push-ups, pull-ups and lock-offs (using a rack I hang from the doorway), and planks. Any other ideas would be appreciated. Thanks! –Jason

• “Chunking” Projects for Rapid Redpoint Learn how to break down a project route for efficient “working” and a quick send!
• VIDEO: See how Daniel Wood’s and Paul Robinson prepare for a Bouldering World Cup competition.
• Question & Answer – Round 98: A recent sprained ankle brought me to the gym and I’m now super excited to start training! Can you give me some advice on adding campus training and core training; also I’m wondering about scheduling workouts to train strength and endurance—can I do them in the same session?

• How to Crank Up Your Confidence As much as any other attribute, your level of confidence upon starting a route may predetermine your likelihood of success. Learn how to increase your confidence on the rock!
• VIDEO: A great feature on NICROS Pro, Alex Johnson, competing at this year’s World Cup event in Vail, CO. Congrats to Alex for her 4th place finish!
• Question & Answer – Round 97:I have a question about finger strength in terms of the various grip positions. Is it true that crimping does NOT directly strengthen open-handed grips, while most open-handed grips do directly improve your hand strength across all types of holds? Thanks! –Jinda

• How to Improve Climbing Efficiency (and Climb WAY Harder!) The technical paramount is to climb with perfect economy. Make those two words, perfect economy, your mantra every time you touch the rock. Perfect economy means discovering the way to do each move—an entire route, for that matter—with minimal energy expenditure.div>
• VIDEO: Nicros’ Pro, Paul Robinson Bouldering in Albarracin, Spain
• Question & Answer – Round 96: Hello Eric, I have a hard time crimping–I open hand almost all holds. I’ve tried doing some specific fingerboard and campus training but crimping just doesn’t feel comfortable. Any insight into this would help alot. –Nathan (British Columbia)

• 3 Exercises for a Crushing Grip As a climbing coach of more than two decades, one of the most common questions I’m asked is “how to train for greater grip strength.” While gains in grip strength come quickly during your formative days, it’s not uncommon for grip strength to plateau after a few years of regular climbing.
• VIDEO: Nicros’ Pro, Daniel Woods Crushes at Hueco Tanks–76 V-points in One Day!
• Question & Answer – Round 95: Hello Eric, I built a woody in my garage 3 years ago and put up your HIT system. I weigh about 180lbs and am wondering what the maximum weight you recommend for each grip. Currently, I use 35lbs for Crimp, 10lbs for Pinch, 10lbs 3rd team two-finger pocket, 30lbs 2nd and 1st team two-finger pockets, 45lbs for open hand grip. I am getting significantly stronger this garage season, and am worried my strength will surpass my tendons and/or judgement. –Matt (Montana)

• A Power Principle for Developing Excellent Technique and Movement Skills One of the key principles for effective skill development and motor learning is that you must strive to achieve near-perfection of specific skills and techniques, and not be satisfied to just “get by” at them. This is an immensely powerful concept…
• Question & Answer – Round 94: I’ve recently develop elbow pain (tendinitis?) and I’m preparing for a climbing trip to Spain in a couple of weeks. What should I do?
• VIDEO: Monthly hold featurette: Diff-Tex Dome Micros & Mixed Micros

   

• One-Arm Traversing for Increased Grip Strength Here’s a simple, effective, and fun exercise that you can add to your winter gym workouts to increase your grip strength in the Spring!
• VIDEO: Monthly hold featurette: Diff-Tex Crimps
• Question & Answer – Round 93: How should I train to improve at bouldering…so I can enter comps?

• Goal Setting for the New Year (and Beyond)
  Learn how to set powerful goals that really motivate you…and set the stage for an amazing 2012!
   
• VIDEO: Hold overview of Ball Micros & Ball Slopers
   
• Question & Answer – Round 92
  Question: In trying to take it to the next level, should I lose weight, train harder, or just be patient with my currrent program? –Brandon
• VIDEO: Take your climbing to the next level with the The Power of Proactive Positive Thinking
   
• Indoor Drills to Improve Your Technique
  In its essence, climbing is a dance up a rock wall using your four points of contact as the dance steps. Improving at climbing, then, demands that you refine your vertical dance to be smooth, technically sound, and highly efficient.
   
• Question & Answer – Round 91
  Question: Can you suggest a good training hangboard and program for me?  –Roger
  VIDEO: Take your climbing to the next level with the The Power of Proactive Positive Thinking
   
  Question & Answer – Round 90
  Question: I just sent my seventh 5.13 route–all were 13a or 13b, so what’s the best way to train to achieve 5.13+? –Noel (Tennessee)
  Breaking a Performance Plateau – Step #3
  Learn how to elevate your mental game in order to break through to the next grade.
   
  Monthly Hold Featurette – “EH Training Pockets”
   
  Question & Answer – Round 89
  Question: I just bought your H.I.T stripes so that I can step-up my training. What HIT Training advice can you provide me to make the most of my training…and push into the higher grades. -–Matthew (Idaho)
  Breaking a Performance Plateau – Step #2
  Learn how to refine and expand your skill set in order to break through a performance plateau.
  Monthly Hold Featurette – “Edgification”
  Question & Answer – Round 88 Question: I’ve heard of newish climbers injuring themselves when they climb too hard too fast since their muscles are strong but their tendons are not. And I’m wondering how to avoid that while still progressing in my climbing ability. –Alyssa (Alberta, BC)
  Breaking a Performance Plateau – Step #1
  This is the first in a three-part series outlining strategies for breaking through a performance plateau.
  Monthly Hold Featurette – “P.R. 2″
  Video preview of Paul Robinson’s signature line of climbing holds.
  Question & Answer – Round 87 Question: I have an HIT wall at my house and am going to start doing the anaerobic endurance training on it and am wondering how many off days should be taken when doing these workouts. –Brett (Oklahoma)
  Top 5 Finger Strength Training Exercises I’m often asked to provide a list of the best exercises for training finger (grip) strength. While there are dozens of different exercises (and variations thereof) that I could describe, in this article I present a generalized list of training techniques.
  Question & Answer – Round 86 Question: Can you give me some tips or drills to help my youth climber with her footwork and sequencing? Thanks, –Jim (California)
  Climbing Hold Video – “30- and 45-degree Training Crimps” This is the next in a series of monthly videos featuring our the best NICROS training hand holds.
  6 Pump Rocks Exercises You Can Do Almost Anywhere! NICROS’ Pump Rocks provide a unique alternative to training on a fingerboard or pull-up bar. Since the Pump Rocks are free floating, they allow your body to move more naturally through the range of motion when performing pull-ups or lock-offs.
  Training for Youth Climbers – Part 2 This is the second in a two-part series on age-appropriate training for youth climbers. the focus here is on injury prevent during the pubescent growth spurt.
  10 Do’s & Don’ts for Effective Redpointing Here are ten does and don’ts to working—and succeeding—on your projects!
  Training for Youth Climbers – Part 1 This is the first in a two-part series on age-appropriate training for youth climbers.
  Fingerboard Training – Part 4 of 4 Pyramid training simulates the way your forearm muscles might work in climbing a medium-length gym route.
  Fingerboard Training – Part 3 of 4 “Moving hangs” involve working your hands around the board continuously for several minutes, much like climbing a long sustained sequence on the rock. This is a good forearm endurance training exercise for climbers without a home climbing wall.
  Rotator Cuff Rehab & Training Video The shoulders are the most movable joints, and next to the fingers they are the most at-risk body part for climbers. In this video, climber & licensed physical therapist, Don Anderson, demonstrates exercises you should do to protected your shoulders.
  Finding Your Path in the Climbing World There are as many different paths to take in climbing as there are climbers, so why proceed down a path already traveled?
  Motivation & Performance: How to Elevate Both! There are actually myriad reasons why we do the things we do. Motivation can come from many places, and some sources generate a more powerful emotional vector than others.
  Challenging Yourself for Long-term Improvement Climbing is an extraordinarily complex activity with motor and cognitive skills that take a decade or more to learn. The key to sustaining an upward trajectory over the long term is…