TRAINING

Campus Training – Part 2

Campus Training (CT) is the gold standard for developing contact strength and upper-body power. CT is also extremely stressful and, thus, not appropriate for beginner, out-of-shape, or young climbers. As a guideline, you might consider adding some CT to your workout mix if you’ve been climbing three or more years with no incidence of injury (fingers, elbows, shoulders) and if you already possess a moderately high level of fitness and ability (can you do 20 pull-ups and boulder V5 or climb 5.11?). Begin training for a few months (or more) with some of the basic CT exercises described in the first article, before graduating to the Double Dyno (truly an elite-level exercise which is inappropriate for the average weekend warrior).

Double Dyno
This dynamic up-and-down, fully air-borne exercise is most recognized as true Campus Training. While not quite as difficult as it first appears, the exercise is extremely stressful and potentially injurious if over used. Always perform a lengthy warm-up of dynamic stretching, climbing, and other upper body exercises (pull-ups, hangs, etc.) before campus training.

Begin on rung number 3 (photo 1). Let go with both hands simultaneously, dropping down to catch rung number 2 (photo 2) and immediately explode back up (photo 3) to catch rung number 4 (photo 4). This is one full repetition, but don’t stop! Drop from rung 4 down to rung 2 and explode back up to rung 4.  And continue up to 5 cycles or until you are unable to make the explosive up movement and catch (whichever comes first). Try to avoid failing on the drop-down catch (have a crash pad in place just in case). The difficulty of this exercise depends on the size and spacing of the rung–you can make it harder by using small rungs or great distance traveled.

 

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Initially, do only one or two sets of Double Dynos per workout. As you gain comfort and strength you can do up to five sets, being sure to fully recovery between sets (at least 5 minutes rest). As with the easier CT exercises described in the previous article, it’s useful to record in a notebook the number of reps and sets performed as well as the rung numbers used.

As a final note, the dynamic nature of this exercise dictates use of the open-hand grip–never attempt to campus train with a closed-crimp grip!  Cut back or cease campus training at the first sign of any pain in the fingers, tendons, or joints.


 


Entry-Level Campus Training

Developed nearly 25 years ago by the late Wolfgang Güllich, Campus Training (CT) has become a fundamental training technique for intermediate to advanced climbers specializing in bouldering and sport climbing. Regardless of your current level of strength, I believe that you can quickly add 10 percent (or more) to your contact strength and power with just a few weeks of CT. Of course, such a gain is significant and could translate to a one or two letter- or V-grade increase in climbing ability.

The effectiveness of CT comes from neurological adaptations (not actual muscle growth) shown to result from plyometric-type training exercises. While CT is a dilute form of the plyometric training used by elite athletes in other sports, it remains one of the most effective training methods for climbers. Unfortunately, CT is dismissed by many climbers as “too dangerous.”

The fact is, most injuries related to CT result from overtraining and/or misuse of the most advance Double-Dyno CT exercise. Please note that there are less-risky, lower-stress CT exercises that many climbers safely use as part of their training program.

In this first article on Campus Training, I’ll present two staple exercises that you can put to work today to increase your lock-off strength, power, and contact strength (ability to stick small edges). Future articles will detail several more advanced exercises.

Laddering
This is one of the best exercises for developing upper body power. Just as the name says, this exercise involves laddering hand-over-hand and with no-feet up the board. Descend the board in the same fashion, and repeat until failure. To help quantify your training, it helps to number the rungs from bottom to top. Therefore, initially you might ladder up rungs 1-2-3-4-5, but progress to a more powerful 1-3-5 sequence as your strength and power increase (1-4-7 is the elite benchmark to aim for). First-time CT users should perform just three total sets, whereas well-trained individuals may do anywhere from three to six sets. Rest for two to three minutes between sets.

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Touches (aka “Lock-offs”)
This exercise trains lock-off strength as well as contact grip strength. Begin by hanging from the bottom rung of the board. Pull-up with both hands, then in a continuous motion lunge up with one hand to grab the highest rung possible (usually the 3rd or 4th rung, depending on the spacing). Lock-off here for a second or so then drop back down to the starting hold and return to a hanging position. Immediately, pull back up and lunge with the opposite hand to grab a high rung. Again, hold the lock-off for one second before dropping back down to a two-handed hang. Continue in this alternating fashion for 6 to 12 (hard) total touches. Ideal form would be a solid 1-second lock-off at the top positions, but only an instant of pause at the bottom position before launching back up with the next touch. Do one to three sets, and rest about three minutes between sets.

Campus Training Guidelines

  • Engage in Campus Training only if you are an intermediate to advanced climber (able to toprope at least 5.11 or boulder V4) with at least two years of sport-specific training exercise AND no recent history of finger or arm injury.
  • Warm-up thoroughly; this should include about 30 minutes of progressively more difficult bouldering. Consider reinforcing the base of your fingers with a few tight turns of athletic tape. Emphasize quality over quantity.
  • Four quality sets on the campus board is far better than eight sloppy, poorly executed sets. Remember, campus training is only a small portion of a good strength training workout–make it the central part of your training program and you may get injured.
  • Do not campus train while in a state of high fatigue–it’s vital to maintain good technique and high quality execution (i.e. not “catching” with completely straight arms, which stresses the shoulders).
  • End the training session immediately upon any sign of joint or tendon pain.
  • CT a maximum of twice per week during the strength/power phase of your training program.