NICROS - Training Center

#8. Creative Use of the Feet

What do you do when you start pumping out or lacking reach on steep terrain? Consider using one of your feet as a hand! Heel hooks, toe hooks, and knee locks are real difference-makers when it comes to surmounting roofs and surviving on overhanging rock. Given the strength of the leg muscles, a good heel hook, knee bar, or toe hook is often more effective and efficient than the available handholds in surmounting a bulging crux or roof. Let’s kick into the details of these critical moves.

Heel Hooking
Your primary use of heel hooks will come when turning the lip of a roof, topping out on a boulder problem, or copping a quick shakeout while on steep stone. In these cases, you’ll likely have your hands on holds at or above head level and intend to place one of your heels on a hold off to the side near shoulder level. Which heel you choose to hook with depends on two factors: the availability of a decent-sized hold on which to place your heel, and the location of the next handhold that you hope to acquire. This next reach up is best made with the hand on the same side as the heel hook. So if it looks like the next attainable hold is set up for the right hand, it would be best to use a right heel hook. Once set, pull with the heel hook as if it were an extra arm. Often it helps to think about pulling your heel toward your rear end; this will maximize use of the leg muscles and help shift your center of gravity toward the heel hook. Meanwhile, the other foot should inside-edge or smear on the wall to help contribute to the upward motion. As you gain elevation, make a quick reach to the next handhold and then switch your heel hook into a standard step-down foot placement.

[Jen Cypressi stylin' at Governor Stables, PA. Horst photo.]

Toe Hooking
Toe hooking is a foot move used mostly in pulling overhangs or in navigating roofs. This technique involves simply hooking as much of the toe and top (laces) portion of your shoe as possible on a large protruding hold. Sometimes you will toe hook onto a hold with a bent leg, and then straighten that leg as your hands move out the roof. Ideally you’ll have one foot toe hooking while the other foot pushes off a nearby hold. This opposing push-pull combination enhances the foot purchase on the holds and lowers the chance your feet will come swinging off the roof (a common problem). Strive to keep your arms and legs in the straight position as much as possible so that your body weight is being supported more by bone than by muscles. Done properly, you can navigate a surprisingly large roof with the limiting factor being forearm endurance. Experiment with this foot technique in the bouldering area and you’ll gradually gain skill and confidence in climbing with your back to the ground!

Knee Locks
Knee locks are a boon on overhanging walls and roofs with large protruding holds—that is, if you know the technique and can find a position to exploit this “thank-god” move. Consider a severely overhanging indoor climb with no obvious rest positions. Chances are the forerunner has positioned two holds in just the right way so that you can place your toe on one hold and then lock your knee against a larger opposing hold. Such a knee lock can provide surprising purchase and it will often allow you to drop one hand at a time to shake out and chalk up. When climbing outdoors you will occasionally come upon a knee lock that’s so solid you’ll be able to cop a rare, no-hands inverted rest! Keep your eyes open for a downward-facing block (with an opposing toe hold) or a knee-width crack or oblong pocket--miss such a knee-lock and you've missed perhaps the most important hold of the climb!