Services




7.26.10
Due to a server glitch, Nicros was unable to process requests, questions, or comments submitted within the Nicros website from the last few weeks. Please resubmit your information.

We apologize for the inconvenience.

- Nicros
Team

 


Training Poll
What type of cross-training activity do you do in conjunction with climbing?
Running
Biking
Yoga/Pilates
Health Club Circuit Training
Swimming
Weight Lifting
Other

view results



Reactive Training - Part 2

One-Arm Lunging
 

This entry-level reactive-training exercise is just dynamic enough to stimulate fast-twitch muscle fibers and develop contact strength. As a feet-on exercise, however, it's much less stressful on the joints and tendon than Campus training. Use this exercise two a week for several months before graduating to the various campus-training exercises to be covered in upcoming articles. Here's how to perform One-Arm Lunging (also known as One-Arm Deadpoint).


1. Select a section of indoor wall that overhangs anywhere from 5 to 25 degrees past vertical—the steeper the wall, the more difficult the exercise—and possesses numerous medium-size hand- and footholds. Ideally, you can set a few modular holds specifically for one-arm deadpoint training. Set two footholds about a foot off the ground, and then set two nontweaky medium-size handholds, one in front of your face and the other about 2 feet above that.


2. Climb onto the wall and balance your weight evenly on the two footholds. Grip the hold in front of your face with one hand, then let go with the other hand and hold it behind your back.


3. Begin lunging up and down between the two handholds. Optimal technique is to draw your body toward the wall and lunge up to the top hold, doing so all in one smooth motion. This drawing-in of the body facilitates a quick grab at the next hold while upward momentum briefly reduces your load—this is commonly called a deadpoint move. Upon catching the top handhold, immediately drop back down to the bottom hold and, without pause, explode back up to the top hold. Avoid catching the bottom hold with a straight arm--maintaining a slight bend in the elbow limits stress on the elbow and shoulder.


#1: Start on high hold. #2: Drop to low hold. #3: Lunge to top hold.

4. Continue lunging up and down for eight to twelve total hand movements, then step down off the wall.


5. After a brief rest, step back up on the wall and perform a set of one-arm deadpoints with your other hand.


6. Perform two or three total sets with each hand.


7. Safety note: This exercise dynamically loads all components of the fingers and arms. Proceed with caution, and cease the exercise if you experience any joint or tendon pain.



Copyright 2008 Eric J. Hörst. All rights reserved.




 
 
 

MADE IN USA
Copyright © 2010. Nicros. All rights reserved.
Nicros,and all related logos, artwork, images and
elements are property or registered trademarks of Nicros
MSA AUTO BELAY -- STOP USE NOTICE| WARNINGS