What's the best entry-level training for climbing?
Q: Hey Eric, I am currently reading your book, Training for Climbing and I am enjoying learning the science behind effective training. However, I would like your feedback on something. Reading between the lines, it seems you have subtly indicated that if you are really "out of shape" then there is a precursor approach to training before I should even attempt serious sport-specific training. Am I reading this correctly?
I started climbing in June of this year (I weighed 225 lbs, but I'm now down to 205). I was so weak that I could barely pull-up and lock-off an the easiest jugs; however, I can now pull-up on 2-finger jugs. I am reducing my carb and junk food intake, and I try to climb 2, sometimes 3, times a week. I am still far from what I feel like would be a decent standard of basic strength and power. Should I concentrate on just losing weight and continue self-teaching on the crags? I believe in self-improvement, especially seeking out books by experts who have already blazed the trail. But, I feel that most of what I read is directed to a level that is above my ability at this point. Any feedback is welcome. --Jake (UK)
A: Jake, Good to hear from you and, yes, you are correctly reading between the lines. Top priority for you now is dropping some weight AND continuing to expand your technical abilities. Bouldering and traversing is good, but climbing vertical is important, too. The more diverse your climbing (early on), the faster you'll learn the many skills you need. Moreover, developing skill quickly will provide what I call "skill strength"--that is, you'll feel stronger on the rock because your high skill level will provide better economy of movement. But it would also be great to lose 20 lbs (or more), so think about adding some running to your schedule several days per week. Of course, it's vital to cut back on fat and other junk calories. Don't cut your carbos too low, because carbs are the preferred fuel for exercise...don't want to lose your energy level for workouts and excellent days on the rock. Good luck, and let me know how it goes. Have fun!
What's the best "performance fuel" for climbers?
Q: I have a question that is perhaps very simple. I know that most mainstream sports athletes eat specifically for performance. For example, I read that bicyclists in the Tour de France make a point of eating a large meal purely of carbohydrates a few hours before each race. Many athletes follow a by-the-book regimen at all times. Obviously climbing has pronounced peculiarities when compared to mainstream sports and the energy needs are vastly different than those of, say, long distance cycling. My question is, therefore, what is the miracle climbing meal? What should a climber eat immediately before going climbing and during climbing to assure him/her self that he/she is failing for some other reason than not enough energy or the wrong type of fuel? Can a meal the previous night effect climbing energy/strength levels in this regard also? - Ben (VT)
A: Hey Ben, You make some good comments/questions. Chapter 9 if TFC does answer many of the recovery question and should help you out. The meal follow a workout is more important than a rest day meal the day before climbing. While climbing, foods with slow release energy are better--my favorite climbing foods are Balance bars, bananas, Clif Bars new Builder Bar--these all provide a slow, sustained release that won't get you too high or low. Like you said, many of the sugar-rich foods made for other athletes (Gels, Gatorade, and such) are not ideal for climbers. Good luck and crank!
How to improve flexibility?
Q: Eric, I am probably the least flexible person in the world, and have been ever since I was a kid. I have tried to get more flexible, doing stretching and stuff; however, after a week of a stretching program my muscles always feel really sore. It seems that I am putting myself in more discomfort by stretching than if I don't…and thus it continues. I stretch for a week or so until I become sore, and then I go back to not stretching for ages, until I see something that inspires me to stretch again, and so on. What am I doing wrong? Do you have any advice for those of us that can't actually touch our toes? --Tim
A: Hey Tim, I can relate to your situation--my flexibility is poor, and dedicated stretching provides only modest improvement. Bottomline: this is just how we are. Short people can't do much to get taller, and there's not much either of us could do to gain great flexibility. Still, some light, daily stretching might provide some minor improvements. However, you do NOT want to go overboard and stretch to the point of feeling sore the next day (as you've done previously). I suggest you simply commit to 5 or 10 minutes of light pre-climb stretching (or evening stretching in front of the TV) and end it there. Realize that you are never going to do splits (grin), and that you must adjust your technique on climbs that require extreme flexibility (fortunately, these types of climbs are rare).
Ideal training and rest schedule for a "40-something"?
Q: After a weekend of climbing, how should I structure my rest days? Let me say that I'm 46 years old, climb in the 5.10 range, 5 feet 7 inches tall, 150 pounds, have been climbing for 6 years, and went through 2 years of medial epicondylitis in my left elbow (about 2.5 years ago). I treat my rest days are sacred events. They allow my body to heal and prevent injury. Currently, on rest days I eat a balanced diet but don't exercise at all. After two day of climbing (Saturday and Sunday), I'll rest for two days. On Wednesday I'll stretch for 10 minutes, run for 30 minutes to warm-up, stretch for 10 afterwards, and then start into the H.I.T. workout with all of its warm-up/cool down procedures. Within 30 minutes of concluding the H.I.T. workout, I'll have a skim milk and Whey protein drink and eat a balanced supper. Then, following your recommendations, its 48 hour of rest. Just in time for another weekend of climbing. The only problem is that I only get one day per week of working out on the H.I.T. strips. I'm concerned that running, swimming, lifting weights and such on my "rest days" will lead to injury. Where are the flaws in my workout schedule? I would like to get more workout days per week and not get injured. What's a guy to do? Your answers are always insightful and help motivate me to improve. --Ken
A: Ken, Sounds like you are on the right track. Given your injury history, I'd err on the side of too much rest. For training max strength, your current schedule is fine. However, I'd suggest you begin a training cycle like the 3-2-1, where you can do 3 weeks of HIT (your current schedule), then 2 weeks of A-E training on where you would training on consecutive days (Tuesday/Wednesday, given your current schedule). As for non-specific training on climbing rest days, I'd avoid anything on Monday and Friday. However, doing some Push exercises or running on Tuesday and Thursday would be good. Hope this helps out!
What's the best training for a 14-year old?
Q: Eric, I really respect your opinion about training for climbing and I have a few questions that hopefully you can answer. First, let me tell you my circumstances: I am almost 14 years old, I currently onsight hard V3s and redpoint V6, and lastly, I have been bouldering twice a week since early last March. I have recently hit a rut, I don't seem to be getting any better. Maybe it is because I haven't been climbing consistently since the summer, meaning that I will sometimes skip a week or two and that climb 5 times the next week. I am building a 45-degree wall under my basement steps so I have room for training on HIT or something else. I have heard tons of good things about your HIT program. I am wondering if HIT would be the best thing to use of what. --Will
A: Dear Will, It sounds like you are doing great. In a nutshell, I think you simply need to get out climbing more often (2 to 4 days per week) and not worry too much about serious training. Building a home wall would be beneficial for developing more grip and lock-off strength, but I do not encourage intensive training (Campus or heavy HIT) for teenagers under age 17. I think you will continue to improve, but improvement always comes in waves...with periods of "consolidation" between "jumps" upward. Therefore, you need to take plateaus in stride and accept them as part of the process. That's tough when you are highly motivated, but it is the process everyone goes through. Of course, in the long-term you will need to focus more and more on developing high-end strength, but the first few years it's best to focus more on technique, strategy and the mental game. No doubt you will improve a little each year (some more than others). Good luck!
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