NICROS

great training program. For sports training, however, the cornerstone principle is specificity of training. Thus, an effective training program for rock climbers must be specific to climbing in many ways. CrossFit is, of course, a general (all be it excellent) conditioning program. So, I'll stand by the idea that CrossFit could be useful as an offseason "base" training for a month or two. But as climbing season nears the training should morph into something more climbing-specific.

Of course, every climber is unique and only YOU can best determine how you want to train. An out of shape beginner might benefit most by just climbing (to learn technique) and doing CrossFit (to gain all-around conditioning). Whereas a more advanced climber would do best by focusing on climbing endurance training, hard bouldering, hypergravity training, reactive training, and such, since these address the common limiting physical constraints of more advanced climbers.

Q: Hey Eric, What do you consider the best multivitamin out there? There is some debate between natural and synthetic. –Kyle (New York)

A: Hi Kyle, Multi-vitamins are all pretty much the same, despite what the labels and advertisements say. Really! I buy the cheapest multi-vit I can find at CVS (usually around $12 for 180 tabs) and I take one each morning, along with several other supplements.

Q: Having just started a full-time job (and now climbing less), I’m wondering how I can best use the company gym to maintain my current standard of climbing? Outdoor climbing and indoor walls are some distance away. –Alley (U.K.)

A: Hi Ally, As you know, climbing hard is a very specific and subtle thing, so general training at the company gym is less beneficial than climbing as a workout. But you have to do the best you can, so I suggest you train a few days per week at work by doing aerobic training for about 30 minutes, followed by several pull-muscle exercises, some general core exercises, and push-muscle training. Doing 5 to 10 sets of pull-ups each workout will keep your big muscles in climbing shape; the problem is the forearms, which really require gripping rock to train most effectively. Perhaps you could buy a fingerboard and have them hang it in the company gym? That way you could do fingertip pull-ups on a 3/4-inch edge, and get somewhat of a grip workout. Try to get to the climbing gym once per week, twice if at all possible. Good luck!

Q: Hi Eric, I've just started doing some climbing interval training and I wonder if you could give me any pointers or suggest a specific workout? Thanks, and keep up the great work! –Dominic (Canada)

A: Dom, Here's a great interval-training scheme I use as part of my larger training cycle. Do these intervals on a bouldering wall area with different angle walls so that you can climb around on the walls for a few minutes before pumping out. You need to use an egg timer or have a partner with a stop watch (who alternates climbing intervals with you). Here’s what to do.

Climb 1 min, Rest 1 min, Climb 2 min, Rest 2 min, Climb 3 min, Rest 3 minute, Climb 4 min, Rest 4 minute, Climb 5 min, Rest 5 min, Climb 4 min, Rest 4 min, Climb 3 min, Rest 3 min, Climb 2 min, Rest 2 min, Climb 1 min, Rest 1 minute.

This is a wicked Anaerobic-Endurance workout, but the key to surviving it is being able to move onto easier terrain when needed to prevent failure before the time is up on each interval. I try to make-up circuits around my wall that alternates hard bouldering sequences with easier sections and a few brief shake outs (and chalking). This way each timed interval is kind of like a route with hard and easy parts. It may take a few workouts to get a feel for how to best execute the intervals; however if you do this workout twice a week for 3 months, you will undoubtedly be climbing harder on long, sustained boulder problems and routes!