Nicros Shapers and Athletes
Nicros sponsored athletes include some of the most accomplished climbers in the world, including Daniel Woods, Paul Robinson, Alex Johnson and most recently Jon Cardwell. Not only are these climbers amazing athletes, but they have also shaped holds that are part of the Nicros Signature Series.
Alex “AJ” Johnson is an athlete with The North Face, and has been climbing professionally for six years. She began climbing in 1997 and has been a prominent force in the climbing world for the last decade.
Originally from Hudson, WI, Alex spent a great deal of time climbing at the original Vertical Endeavors Climbing Gym (which is attached to Nicros’ corporate headquarters and also owned by Nicros’ President). The time Alex spent climbing and growing up in the Saint Paul, Minnesota facility forged Alex’s longstanding relationship with Nicros.
Growing up in the competition scene, Alex has consistently been a member of the US Team since 2001, winning her first Youth National Championship at age twelve (2002), Adult National Championship at age thirteen (2003), and won a silver medal at the Youth World Championships in Scotland at age fourteen (2004).
In 2008 Alex made history by becoming the first American to win a Climbing World Cup on US soil. In 2010 she did it again, winning gold in Switzerland, becoming the first American to win two World Cups.
Since then she’s shifted her focus toward big outdoor projects, building an impressive tick-list filled with dozens of iconic first female ascents including V12s like the famous Mandala in Bishop, CA, Clear Blue Skies in Colorado, and Lethal Design in Red Rock, NV. Alex is one of few women who spends time getting off the deck climbing highballs like Diesel Power (V10) in Yosemite, The Ninth (V6), and flashing the infamously dangerous Luminance (V10) in Bishop, CA. Recently Alex got the First Ascent of Critically Acclaimed, a stunning V9 highball in Red Rock, NV.
Along with being an ambitious climber, Alex is also an active member of the community, teaching youth clinics around the country and giving presentations at events and Universities.
Last year Alex relocated to Las Vegas, NV, an area with world class climbing, and huge potential for new development, where she hopes to contribute to the establishment of even more great climbing.
As a member of Nicros’ shaping team, Alex is looking forward to contributing to the Nicros line by introducing shapes that are both simple and straightforward. Keep your eyes peeled to see the newest sets from Alex Johnson.
Nicros holds shaped by Alex Johnson: A.J. 1
Hometown: Albuquerque, New Mexico
Sponsors: Five Ten, Moon, Petzl, Nicros
About Jon: Since I was 12 years old I have been motivated by climbing. Climbing was initially just a great new form of movement that fascinated me. Eventually climbing evolved into a lifestyle which I plan on pursuing for as long as possible. Since 2007 I have lived a pseudo-gypsy lifestyle traveling all over the world from South America, Turkey, France, Spain, Switzerland and all over the United States in pursuit of inspiring rock, locations and culture. I currently live Boulder, Colorado where I work as a route setter at two local gyms in between sessions on the rock. Boulder is a great home base but I cannot wait to return to the traveling lifestyle!
Favorite grip/hold: Pinches and edges
Kinematix 5.14d Gorges Du Loup, France
Bumaye 5.14c/d Margalef, Spain
The Crew 5.14c Rifle, Colorado
~70 other 5.14 ascents
Ode to the Modern Man V14
House in the Sky V14 First Ascent
numerous other V13-14 ascents…
Best boulder problem: Dreamtime in Cresciano, Switzerland, for its form and the shape and texture of the holds.
Favorite climbing area: Ceuse, France
Hometown: Moorestown, NJ
Sponsors: Prana, LaSportiva, BD, Sterling, Native, Nicros
What Paul does: scale rocks
Favorite grip/hold: mini pinches
Hardest send: lucid dreaming, buttermilks
Best boulder problem: spectre, pollen grains
Favorite climbing area: Fontainebleau, France
Hometown: Longmont, CO
Favorite grip/hold: Mini Pinches
Hardest send: Hypnotized Minds, The Game
Best boulder problem: Sky in the Rocklands
Favorite climbing area: Rocklands, Hueco, RMNP, Lincoln Lake